Zén took over the white house on Bukit Pasoh Rd after Chef Andre closed his then 2-Michelin starred restaurant and relocated out of Singapore. For me it has been a decade since I last dined inside this building – I recently dropped by Zen to grab their covid period takeout waffles a few months ago~
Back in 2019, we missed the chance to visit Chef Björn Frantzén‘s Michelin-starred eponymous restaurant in Stockholm, we even took a photo of the restaurant door when we happened to pass by it. We said to ourselves – we could still try their outpost helmed by Executive Chef Tristin Farmer back in Singapore. Instead we visited The Flying Elk – then still operating under the Frantzén Group but was subsequently sold in August 2019.
Two+ years later, we were certainly excited to try out Frantzen‘s first Asia outpost (opened in 2018), hoping to relieve the unique flavours we enjoyed in fine dining restaurants in Scandinavia region.
Once you enter the “house”, guests would be lounging in the foyer area to enjoy snacks, canapes and pre-dinner drinks. Here we were presented with Blini Aburi Chutoro & N25 caviar, ‘Råraka’ Kalix Löjrom and Croustade Lobster, artichoke & sancho pepper. Each of them deserves a special mention for their exquisiteness.
For the caviar connoisseur, the N25 which also originates in high-altitude farms in Yunnan, China (on the 25° north latitude) and aged in Germany is known for its unique nutty & floral aroma, packed with reminiscence of ocean umami. The buttery and rich caviar was well paired with the fatty chutoro.
Not wanting to let the caviar take centre stage, the next snack featured the Kalix löjrom (“Caviar of Kalix”) which is the king of Swedish caviars. Rårakor (or Råraka) is a classic Swedish dish similar to Swiss Rösti but the Swedish often eat the potato cakes with caviar roes – served on a plate. The version at Zén had the finely shaved potatoes delicately rolled up and plated into a pretty bite sized snack. What a wonderful feast both for our visual and palate sensors~
Last snack of croustade had crispy light crust, with chewy lobster meat topped with a tinge of citrusy peppery taste. I was absolutely stoked by the trio of snacks! So looking forward to the rest of the evening~
After finishing the snacks, we were invited to the kitchen counter and introduced to the fresh ingredients displayed. This would be a sneak preview of what would be served later. It certainly whetted my appetite.
During which, while listening to the staff’s briefing, we were presented with Gunkan Chevreuil & elderberry and Kombu beignet truffle, nutmeg. The former, had cheveuil aged in beeswax and served as tartare, grilled unagi, topped with apple pearls. On the right was the decadent foie gras parfait filled doughnut, which was also sold as a takeaway during the covid lockdown – but I didn’t managed to try it till now.
After finishing our snacks, we went up a short flight of stairs to the main dining room for the proper dishes. The lighting was a tad too dark for photo taking as the main light source was a candle on our table. So pardon the poor image quality…
We started with a refreshing Crudo: Aged shima aji, heirloom tomato, arabica coffee, ikura, bergamot. This was pretty typical of what we anticipated from Scandinavian cooking. Aging the firm and fatty shima aji supposedly brings out a better flavour profile.
From one classic cold appetizer, we moved on to another classic dish. However this took me by surprise as it was a Chawanmushi tokubushi (baby abalone), cauliflower & hojicha dashi, horseradish, Bafun Uni – an elegant dish which was warm and comforting. The custard was made using Hokkaido milk infused with katsuobushi. The tokobushi was braised in ginger dashi and grilled over binchotan. I almost thought that I was in a Japanese restaurant.
Scallop garum, dehydrated roe, pumpkin hot sauce, finger lime, spruce. Garum is a relatively new condiment to me but it’s presence was increasingly felt in fine-dining restaurants. This fermented fish sauce had its origins back to Roman times and its recent revival was attributed to one of the World’s most influential restaurant – Noma. The garum used here is made from the skirt of the scallop – making full use of the ingredient to minimise food wastage. Garum is said to be able to amplify the natural flavor of the meat, which in this case was the hand-dived scallop from Scotland. The other interesting ingredient was the finger lime. Finger limes are a citrus fruit native to Australia – I last heard of it when dining in Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Sydney. However I saw the ingredient in its original form for the first time here at Zen as the staff plated this dish at the tableside (as well as at the ingredients box presentation earlier). When cut opened, the core comprises of tiny caviar-like spheres (like tobiko), the colour depends on the varieties yellowish-green to pink. This dish had an amalgamation of flavours and textures all packed within each bite.
If one had been to the Scandinavian region, you would probably realised that they are obsessed with Liquorice! It’s everywhere in the Nordics! This velouté of Onion, almond & liquorice is a Frantzén signature which was on the menu at the OG restaurant since 2008. I personally felt that liquorice has an acquired taste…I certainly didn’t like liquorice candy…hence I was initially apprehensive about having this. However I found this soup very palatable, as the liquorice was really subtle. They used Raw organic liquorice from liquorice roots from Lakrids by Bulow. In fact after you drink the soup, the flavours slowly unravels on your palate layer by layer – from the initial sweetness of the onion, to the nuttiness of almond and finishing with earthy undertones of the liquorice.
Having spotted the bottled of 2012 Arbois Vin Jaune during the ingredients showcase and was looking forward to the dish that would be prepared using it. This yellow wine is known as King of the Wines and must be aged a minimum of six years. I last had a fish dish prepared with Vin Jaune at the Orient Express Restaurant pop-up and was pretty impressed by it. Excited to taste it this time served as Monkfish white truffle, Vin Jaune, sprouted walnut.
The second protein dish was Aged duck quince & pine nut ‘polenta’, shiitake, foie gras, sauce vierge. The Challandais duck was aged in-house for 4 weeks, glazed with orange blossom honey, Ceylon cinnamon & fennel seed; then grilled and slowly baked. Served with the sauce vierge which is a French sauce made from olive oil, lemon juice, chopped tomato and chopped basil.
To round up the main course, we were presented with a variation of Frantzén‘s iconic French Toast. Instead of freshly grated truffles sitting on top, it was replaced with a double marinated Black Angus bresaola. French toast double marinated beef, unagi, foie gras, parsley & Japanese mustard emulsion.
During covid lockdown when the restaurant could not open for dine-in, they sold “limited period” waffle sandwiches for takeaway at $20 a piece. I managed to taste them on the very last (or 2nd last day) of them selling it. The heart-shaped Swedish waffles which were thin and crispy were fabulous! So I was eager to try it again, this time round not in sandwich style.
For the dine-in version, we had the Tea, milk & honey yuba, pumpkin seed, lavender honey, banana & jasmine waffle. The tea is jasmine pearl tea named because the tea leaves are rolled into pearl shape and infused with the aroma of jasmine flowers. Similarly for the honey they did not use any ordinary honey but a mikan honey from Kyoto.
After finishing the ice cream and waffle, we moved up to the top floor of the restaurant “Living Room” for the finale.
Here we were presented with an array of snacks along with fresh fruits from Japan.
(first row from top) Mont blanc rum & raisin, foie gras & white truffle, Sable Breton Blueberry, pepper meringue & brown cheese.
(second row) Chocolate liquorice, 100 years old balsamic vinegar added to chewy beetroot with artic raspberry, Macaron Hoshigaki & mikan, Fudge Black garlic & liquorice, Jello Yuzu, fennel & batak pepper.
(picture on right) Cucumber & shiso sorbet, spruce jelly, blackcurrent leaf oil, hanaho and Muskmelon & Manzanilla, Wakayama Gaki (persimmon) & chamomile, Amaou Strawberry & pinecone
The 3-hour long dinner had well-portioned dishes (note: for a female eater) and was well-paced. I managed to finish everything. We had a drinks pairing and a non-alcoholic pairing, if you are interested in the details of the drinks here it is:
Drinks Pairing
Apple Eric Bordelet, Sydre Argellette 2017 Normandy
Tamasakae Schichi Hon Yari Kokoku 2018 Shiga
Gruner Veltliner Nikolaihof Im Wingebirge Baumpresse 2013 Wachau
Kitanishiki Tamagawa & Zen Time Machine 88 Kyoto
Chardonnay Jobard-Morey Meursault 1er Cru 2018 Beaune
Pinot Meunier Roger Coulon Coteaux Champenois 2018 Champagne
Merlot Radikon Merlot 2006 Fruili-Venizia-Guilia
Moscato Di Asti Ca’dGal Vite Vecchia 2014 Piemonte
Non-Alcoholic Pairing
Koji Rice Kamairi Heirloom Tomato Muskmelon
Toasted Red Rice Toasted Red Rice Buckwheat-Orange caramel Tamarind
Kombucha French Rose Da Hong Pao Oolong Dian Hong Black
Raisin Mushroom Tea Brown Butter
Barley Roasted Cauliflower Chiku Hoshigaki
Raspberry & Tomato Redcurrant Omija-cha Kinome
Carrot Purple Carrot Smoked maple syrup
Coconut Rhubarb Banana Elderflower
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