Copenhagen is undeniably the epicentre of the nordic food movement in the recent years, we definitely need to visit the only 3 Michelin starred restaurant in town – Geranium. We were pretty lucky that our schedule allowed us to fit in a meal at Geranium as they were closed for summer break up till 9th Aug (iirc). The restaurant has no more than 10 tables for each session so we enjoyed the spacious dining hall with full height windows offering expansive view of the surrounding greenery.
Upon seated we were presented with an envelope with a letter inside with the Geranium Late Summer Universe menu that we would be enjoying for the afternoon. After the aperitif, we opted to pair our meal with juice pairing. We started our 17-course lunch with appetizer of Lobster, Milk & Juice from Fermented Carrots & Sea Buckthorn. A brightly coloured clear juice served in chinese style tea cups.
Although it was a summer menu, the Jerusalem Artichoke Leaves, Walnut oil & Rye Vinegar looked very much like an Autumn dish isn’t it? Loved the crisp leaves with the creamy dip. Beginning to sense the magic behind Chef’s creations using molecular gastronomy techniques.
Tomato water, Ham Fat & Aromatic Herbs may look light and clear but it was a perfect blend of floral notes with the flavourful ham-scent with the refreshing tomato water base.
After a few lighter dishes, we moved into richer appetizers starting with the smoky Charred Potato in Aroma from Bark & Sheep’s Butter.
“Dillstone” Horseradish & Frozen Juice from Pickled Dill was presented in 2 bowls. If you looked carefully, you’ll find the green “dillstone” sitting on top of the pebbles. Another bowl has creamy horseradish with granita-like frozen juice (not sure if its made with liquid nitrogen?). Ate them in 1 mouthful after mixing the elements together.
Last appetizer was “Razor Clam” with Minerals & Sour Cream. Wafer thin “shell’ filled with razor clam tartar was a beauty. I was impressed by the prints on the wafer to replicate the look of razor clam shells. Almost forgotten to mention the Red Currant juice that accompanied our appetizers.
Main dishes started with Celeriac, Scallop & Dried Trout paired with Sea buckthorn juice. I loved the bright orangey coloured sea buckthorn juice which was sweet and slightly viscous. While the dried trout tarts had great umami with the thin crisp crust, I didn’t quite understand how it relates to the celeriac part of the dish.
Onto the 2nd main dish and it was one of the most impressive course I had at Geranium – Salted Hake, Parsley Stems & Finnish Caviar in Buttermilk. I had to unveil the beautiful hake under the caviar to show you how fascinating the layer of hake looked! Having tried salted cod in Iceland with much pleasure, I was eager to try the Salted Hake. Lovely firm fish texture drizzled with luxurious finnish caviar, immersed in creamy foam and topped with crispy fried scales.
The bread course was pretty unique with Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains & Gluten Free Bread with Seeds.
Creamy Vegetables with Oyster, Peas & Pickled Elderflowers paired with Green apple juice. After my pleasant encounter with peas at Noma, I’ve changed my impression of them. In this dish, the chlorophyll pea taste was “neutralized” by the oyster flavour.
Wild Herbs, Leek, Smoked Pork Fat & Melted “Vesterhavs” Cheese Sumptuous leeks with dainty wild herbs and flowers was first presented followed by the addition of a foamy gravy which was poured into the dish (final presentation not pictured).
King Krab & Beach Crab, Cabbage Sprouts & Söl paired with Gooseberry, sunflower seeds and Terragon juice. Fresh crab meat was sweet and delicate.
Our final main course was Grilled and Salted Pork on the “Bone”, Pickled Pine & Blackcurrant Leaves . The almost melt-in-your-mouth pork was tender and succulent. Although filled with aromatic flavours from pork fat, the dish it was not at all greasy.
After the last main, they served the Cranberry juice along with “A Small Taste of Late Summer” Beetroot, Rhubarb, Yoghurt & Tagetes. A crispy ball to be eaten in 1 bite, with burst of flavours from the filling.
Ice cream from Beeswax, Pollen & Honey with Blackberries paired with Cloud Berry juice.
I was so blown away by the exquisiteness of the final dessert of Wood Sorrel & Woodruff that I missed out on recording the last juice…
Shifted over to the lounge for After Dinner Sweets along with hand-brewed coffee with beans from Coffee Collective. Sweet treats include Cookie dough with sea buckthorn, Sunflower seeds muffin, Caramel and chocolate coated with pine powder.
View from the lounge
Awards on display – Chef Rasmus Kofoed is triple winner of the gold, silver, and bronze medals in Bocuse D’ore-competition.
Unlike at Noma, we didn’t get the chance to interact much with the staff and chef. The ambience here is equivalent to other fine-dining places, however the fully open-kitchen space was the highlight. Being seated in close proximity to the kitchen, we observed how the kitchen operates and it was like watching a play. The coordination amongst the chefs was flawless. Everything went seamlessly smooth and everyone was calm and collected. Food wise, every dish was well-executed to perfection. Each ingredients seems to co-exist in harmony with others.
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