Am Platzl, Rothenburg ob der Tauber

With the knowledge that most shops are not open on Sundays, we planned for a day trip to Rothenburg ob der Tauber from Stuttgart. Departing from Stuttgart main train station at 10am, we arrived in the picturesque town 3 hours later.

Unlike typical days where the town would be bustling with visitors, on Sunday, a serene ambiance enveloped the place as every shop had shuttered their doors. We relished leisurely strolls along the cobbled streets and walkways, reveling in the tranquility that permeated the surroundings. While there were, of course, a few other visitors, their presence was sparse, allowing us to admire the unique charm of the town undisturbed.

After 1.5 hours of relentless photo-taking, our appetites finally got the better of us, and we succumbed to the undeniable grumble of hunger. However we were faced with a minor inconvenience of having to look for a place that serve proper meal. After passing by a few cafes that served only light bites, we were mentally prepared to skip having a proper meal when we found Am Platzl! It was an added bonus that they have a glowing rating of >4.0 on Google!

At 2.30pm, we were uncertain if the restaurant was still accepting guests. We gingerly walked in to enquire and was grateful that the owner welcomed us in. Post-meal, during a brief conversation with the owner, he explained that after the lunch session, preparations for a food tasting session for a wedding celebration would commence.. We were fortunate to be taken in as the last guests for lunch.

We were chugging down our ice cold beer when we were surprised by the warm bread and special spiced slabs of butter served. The savoury “magic powder” was amazing! In my opinion, it resembles “pork floss” mixed with other spices. Although sinful, we had several slabs of the addictive butter which paired extremely well with the bread. This was one of the most special butter we ever tasted!

Next we were served complimentary mushroom veloute. a luxurious and velvety soup characterized by its smooth, creamy texture.

Here’s our starter of Mozzarella, ham, peach. This visually appealing starter was a light and refreshing opening to the meal. The contrast between the creamy mozzarella, salty ham and sweet peach (and fig, I think) created a well-balanced and flavourful dish.

Our main was the hearty Penne pasta, portobello mushroom, tomato, onions. The sweet tomato based pasta was perfect to complement the earlier more savoury starter. Pasta was well-cooked to a nice chewy texture and covered with a generous coat of cheese. Once again the “magic powder” made an appearance.

Both the starter and main courses exceeded our expectations with their generous portions, making our unplanned lunch a delightful surprise. We were truly fortunate to stumble upon this hidden gem and relish the unexpected hearty culinary experience.

Earlier in the day we passed by the two famous confectioneries selling Schneeballen, or “Snow Balls” – fried pastry dough.

Picked up a bag of 6 Schneeballens with assorted flavours. Some were coated with powdered sugar, while some were glazed in chocolate. These would be our lunch if we had not found Am Platzl.  Kept them for breakfast the next morning and ate them while on our train ride to Berlin. In terms of texture, I thought they were really hard, dry and were on the sweet side – perfect when paired with plain coffee though. This pastry is considered the signature dish of the town, although for us having taken lots of enchanting photos were the best memories of the fairytale-like town.

Other Photos Taken:

If it looked as if I’m entering a dead town, I did.

This building is known as “Gerlachschmiede aka Blacksmith’s House”. Rothenburg boasts well-preserved medieval town walls with several towers, offering panoramic views of the town.

Back in those days where people relied on Lonely Planet for travel info, I’ve got one on Central Europe and the front cover is this place. I’ve finally made it here to witness its beauty!

Plönlein is the iconic symbol of this charming medieval town. Many visitors commented that they chose to stay overnight in this town for a chance to take pictures at this photospot early in the morning or late evening without being “photobombed” by others.

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Exploring Stuttgart

Stuttgart is a major industrial hub and is known for its automotive industry. It is the headquarters of renowned automobile companies such as Mercedes-Benz and Porsche. Our main reason for visiting Stuttgart was to do the Porsche Factory Tour!

Due to tight scheduling, we only had time for a quick lunch. Hence we stopped by tobi’s Snack Königsbau, housed within a food court near the main train station. Other than snack kiosks, their main business is their fast food restaurant where they offer wider variety of food. We ordered the Mini schnitzel and Spätzle – which was served conveniently in a box.

Schnitzel and Spätzle represent classic and comforting German dishes. Spätzle are a type of soft egg noodle, originating from Swabia in Germany. The dough is pushed through a coarse colander to form like short noodles and have a slightly chewy texture. Service was pretty quick and food was reasonable (freshly made, served warm) – though there was nothing to rave about.

As we were still in the state of Baden-Württemberg, local cuisines remained Swabian based and having tasted them for a few days we were excited to see a lot of Asian food options near our hotel.

For our first dinner in Stuttgart, we had takeout of Pad Thai, Fried Chicken Drumlets and Thai Milk Tea from Tiffany Thaistyle. I had craving for fried chicken wings and was looking forward to the ones at Burger King, but I realised that these are no longer available on the menu? (didn’t find them at Frankfurt and Stuttgart outlets). The ones from the Thai establishment were good – especially since it was served with thai sweet chilli sauce, but was a tad costly…

For breakfast, we grabbed a Pistachio Croissant – croissant freshly filled with luscious pistachio crème upon order, when we chanced upon Celebre café.

Tea break at Hugo Boss Times Café, which is housed under the roof of the world’s largest BOSS outlet. The luxury fashion brand is headquartered in MetzingenGermany

Linner (Lunch+Dinner) once again featured Asian cuisine.

Spicy Tuna Tartar Tuna, Lime, Daikon-Radish, Sesame, Spring Onions and Curry Bowl Chicken slightly hot curry sauce, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, peas, cauliflower, sprouts, lemongrass, sesame, herbs, jasmine rice.

I guess I’m stuffing myself with Asian food cos I knew we would not have the chance to eat it for the rest of our trip in Berlin and Copenhagen where we already had our meals all planned out. =)

Last meal before leaving Stuttgart, we had Japanese food at Keyaki Japanese Cuisine Restaurant.

A freshly made hot crepe is always a tempting treat for supper. The kiosk located along Königstraße right across the main train station always had a queue when we pass by. We ordered the sweet banana-choco crepe and gobbled it up during our short walk back to our hotel nearby.

Other Photos Taken:

Signed up for the popular Porsche 911/718 factory tour which is held next to the Porsche Museum. There is even a S-Bahn stop named “Porscheplatz” to serve the community. No photos and handphones allowed inside the factory premise while we embarked on a 90-mins tour. We were led through and introduced on the work undertaken by various sections across the multi-storied factory workshop. As almost every part of the car can be customised, there were lots of choices and variation involved in the assembly of each Porsche, from the type/colour of leather used, to customised car paint colour etc. Their definition of customised colour meant you can specify any colour you want and not limited to any catalogue colours.

The workshop was surprisingly not as spacious as I expected it to be. While we were led through the floor space, we had to be wary and keep a lookout of autonomous/human-driven moving “carts” which were used to transport the necessary parts to the assembly team in a “Just-in-Time” manner. There were a few “near misses” where visitors had a close brush with the autonomous “carts”.

It was interesting to get a glimpse behind the scenes of the production process of the legendary 911/718 Cayman. The 911 and 718 sports cars are built side-by-side on one single assembly line. The assembly line for spray painting bodyworks was filled with colourful chassis instead of monotone coloured vehicles. As the chassis moved across the workshop, it gets fitted by various department teams. Since each car differs (hard top vs soft top, left-hand drive vs right-hand drive), the assembly team do not carry out monotonous repetitive work. They need to check the specifications of each car and fit them accordingly. We also saw that ergonomic considerations are a huge feature when designing the workflow here. I would think that if someone placed an order for a Porsche, it might even be possible for him to visit the factory to witness the production of his car!

After ending the factory tour, we visited the Porsche Museum (separate entry fee applies). The exhibition area is filled with an impressive display of legendary racing cars and iconic road models etc.

There are also a few road models for visitors to touch, feel and sit in, just like in a showroom.

There is a Porsche Drive Rental service where public can hire and drive a Porsche for a few hours, a weekend or up to 28 days.

The Porsche Museum and Factory Tour is a captivating attraction for automobile enthusiasts.

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★ Maltes hidden kitchen, Baden-Baden

Other than rejuvenating our souls at this renown spa town, we also pampered our culinary senses at Maltes hidden kitchen – a 1-Michelin starred casual fine dining establishment. We opted for 3-course menu with different choice for each of the starter/main/dessert, therefore allowing us to taste all the dishes on the 1-page menu.

With the task of packing our luggage post-dinner, we opted to forgo the wine pairing. Instead we chose to have 1 modest glass of wine each for the meal. We were recommended the Rully Les Saint-Jacques 2020 and Fritz Haag Juffer Sonnenuhr 2021 Riesling Auslese.

Culinary Harmony Macaron goose liver & mandarin (left) and Enoki mushroom wasabi (right). Crisp and slightly chewy petite macaron provided a textural contrast to the creamy and flavourful goose liver. It was followed by the towering fried enoki mushroom skewer drizzled with wasabi sauce.

Amuse Bouche Mussel with ponzu and yuzu. I’m enjoying the the Japanese flavours infused in the creative dishes here.

Bread with Malabar pepper from India with rosemary butter.

Hare Winter Vegetables, Mole, Herbs. The hare, known for its robust and distinctive flavour is not something that we eat often. But we were confident that it would be well-prepared in fine dining restaurants. The Chef thoughtfully paired the gamey richness of hare with mole, a rich and complex sauce with roots in Mexican cuisine.

Dumpling Beetroot, Cassis, “Belper Knolle” pickled corn, butter corn. The ball in the glass dome is not truffle but “Belper Knolle”. Originating from Switzerland, it is a unique and artisanal cheese known as “the truffle of cheeses“. I was once again fascinated by how the cuisines here always seems to remind me of Japan.

White Halibut Potato, Spinach, Caviar Beurre Blanc This dish showcases an artful blend of textures. The halibut, tender and flaky, was delicately topped with thinly sliced potatoes, expertly roasted to a delightful crisp. A final touch of sophistication came in the form of a spoonful of caviar, introducing yet another layer of texture. The mildness of the halibut was well complemented with the richness of the Beurre Blanc sauce.

Guinea Fowl BreastLe Prince de Dombes from MieralTruffle, 3x Bean, Shallot This dish showcased a thoughtful curation of premium ingredients and culinary finesse. The guinea fowl breast, elevated by truffle accents, was accompanied by a trio of beans (French bean, edamame and one more) and caramelized shallot that brought a subtle sweetness and aromatic quality to the overall flavour profile.

Robiola TrisAffineur WaltmannCranberry, Pumpernickel, Violet. The Robiola Tris, from artisanal affineur store that specializes in the art of aging and maturing cheese, is a slightly ripened cream cheese made from cow, goat and sheep milk. It sits on a slice Pumpernickel (dense, slightly sweet rye bread) which was then adorned with various floral and fruits garnishes.

Apple & Cream Vanilla, Piedmont Hazelnut A visually pleasing dessert with a harmonious blend of sweet, creamy, and nutty flavors.

The restaurant operates as a cafe known as Kaffeehaus in Baden-Baden by day so we ordered black coffee to pair with our sweets. Petits fours Strawberry macaron, Nougat, Chocolate.

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Exploring Baden-Baden

Photo dump of snacks, takeouts and sightseeing in Baden-Baden.

If given a choice we usually would not book a room with breakfast, but I think this one Hotel Der Kliene Prinz came with it as a package. The breakfast area brought us back to the Victorian era, with coving and panel wainscoting. I don’t take heavy breakfast so I am easily satisfied with a moderate range of selection but with emphasis on good quality confectionery. Was happy with our breakfast here – it was better than some chain hotels.

Had a few simple and convenient takeout meals – largely Asian food, which was surprisingly accessible and rather affordable (cos the portions were huge!).

Went supermarket shopping. The Milka Tender (Black Forest mini roll) was too sweet for me. Also top-up on our “liquid diet”.

Casino Baden-Baden, is one of the most iconic and historic casinos in the World, so we went inside (not for gambling) for a tour~ The tour was conducted in the day when the casino is not opened and we were allowed to take pictures.

The casino has a rich history dating back to the 19th century. It was established in 1824 and has maintained its reputation as a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

The interior features opulent decor, chandeliers, and ornate details, contributing to a luxurious atmosphere.

They had a section with glass-roof terrace where one can play Blackjack with skylights. Felt pretty refreshing and unique. Although our main aim was to admire the gorgeous decorations, we were educated slightly on the less commonly seen French roulette – the only table above (right). It features an umpire sitting on a raised chair and two dealers (known as croupiers) in French.

Florentine Room (Hall of one thousand candles) – certainly reminded me of The Phantom of the Opera. Due to the unique acoustics quality of this room, they also use it for concerts and talks.

One last activity on our itinerary was to visit the thermal spa house, Caracalla Spa. There are two famous ones in the town. This is the modern spa which is swimsuit friendly but also no photos allowed inside.

Conversely there is a traditional bathhouse Friedrichsbad Baden-Baden which is a fully-nude AND completely co-ed (for most of the days) spa.

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Café König, Baden-Baden

Black Forest Cake, or “Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte“, is a renowned and classic cake that originated in the Black Forest region of Germany. Our two-night stay in the spa town of Baden-Baden was intended for us to rest our sore muscles from skiing the few days prior. Although the skiing did not materialise, we proceeded with our original itinerary to chill in this quaint relaxing town.

With much time on hand, we had the opportunity to enjoy a leisurely afternoon tea at Café König.

The cake was served on its side (not that we toppled it) which I guess is to let guests see the distinctive layers: shortcrust pastry base, chocolate sponge cake, kirsch-soaked cherries, whipped cream and chocolate shavings.

I was not able to comment whether the version here is the best in the Black Forest region. But it was light and had a delightful balance of flavours. We read about another legendary confectionery said to serve one of the best cake in Triberg Cafe Schaefer, with heavy dose of kirschwasser (cherry schnapps), but it is now permanently closed.

For me, the black forest cake carries a sense of nostalgia, evoking memories of birthday celebrations.

Earlier Photos Taken:

A short hike up the steps opposite the church at Marktplatz and then turn to the right when you see the sign Schloßstaffeln. It leads up to the Terrace outside New Castle for a vantage viewpoint over the old town of Baden-Baden.

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Löwenbräu, Baden-Baden

Löwenbräu (Lion’s brew) is a brewery originating in Munich but we did not have the chance to visit them while we were there many years ago (post).

The interior arched ceiling reminded me of Santorini as it felt like we were in a cave.

Other than trying the beer, we had the Kasespätzle Cheese noodles with roasted onions and garnished salad. Its a traditional German dish, specifically associated with the Swabia region. The dish is based on Spätzle, but baked with grated cheese.

Another classic Swabian cuisine that was in my “To-Eat” list was the Maltaschen Meat pockets in consommé. It is somewhat like a large meat-filled dumpling or German-style ravioli.

Having tasted a few Swabian cuisines (including my visit to Hirschen in Lehen), it was certain that the cuisine have a reputation for being rustic, but rich and hearty.

Earlier Photos Taken:

Did not associate the name of the hotel – Hotel Der Kliene Prinz to mean that it would be decked out in The Little Prince theme. Many paintings depicting the story were hung along the corridors of the common area and a big statue greeting us on one of the floors.

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La Pepa, Freiburg im Breisgau

After spending three full days trying to adapt to Europe time zone (7 hours time difference from Singapore), I finally felt I was almost getting over my jet lag~ We ventured out for a late dinner around 9 pm. In the previous two nights, we would usually be asleep by this time.

Freiburg, being a diverse and vibrant city, offers a range of international cuisine options to cater to various tastes and preferences. I shortlisted this place near our hotel, since it opens till late, for a light bite.

Since La Pepa is a pub/bar that serves Spanish tapas, it was customary for us to order Spanish Sangrias along with a side of olives.

Deciding what to eat at a Spanish bar was definitely much easier than dining at a German restaurant. We were pretty familiar with tapas and managed to quickly finalise our choices.

Starting with Croquetas de pollo y jamon Chicken and ham croquettes and Pimientos del padron Padron peppers.

Followed by Langostino plancha Grilled prawns and Pulpo al grill Grilled octopus. Beautifully plated, a deliciously smoky and tender dish with a delightful combination of flavours and textures. The octopus was tender on the inside and charred on the outside.

Extremely satisfied with the dishes here, flavoursome and well-executed.

Earlier Photos Taken:

From the normal cuckoo clocks (above) to the First World’s Biggest Cuckoo Clock (below left), you can see them all in Triberg.

Current title holder of World’s Biggest Cuckoo Clock (above right). Its a distinction it held since 1997. This one only chimes hourly, so you have to time your visit.

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Hotel Restaurant Pfaff, Triberg

Triberg in the Black Forest region of Germany is known as the home of the cuckoo clock industry. The tradition of making cuckoo clocks in the Black Forest dates back to the 18th century. From Freiburg train station, we embarked on an approximately 2-hour train journey to Triberg station. Upon arrival, it is worth noting that the Triberg train station is a distance away from the heart of the charming old town, requiring about 20-minutes walk. While there is a bus stop conveniently situated outside the Triberg train station, be aware that bus services can be limited, especially since we travelled during the winter season. For a one-way walking and one-way bus experience, I suggest taking a bus heading towards the old town upon your arrival. This recommendation takes into account the uphill journey in that direction.

We arrived just in time for lunch in old town of Triberg. Hotel Restaurant Pfaff is conveniently located right opposite the main ticketing entrance to the Triberg waterfall.

After our 20-minutes walk in the cold weather, sipping a hot soup would be a comforting and soul-warming experience. It was timely to enjoy a hearty Hungarian goulash soup. I fell in love with Hungarian goulash soup since I had it in Budapest (post).

Black Forest ham, known as “Schwarzwälder Schinken“, is a renowned specialty of the Black Forest region in Germany. When we did not see the dish in the menu, we specifically asked the staff if they serve it and he handed us the “Small Dishes” menu. Ironically, look at the generous portion when the dish was served!

Black Forest Ham Platter Original Black Forest ham, pickles and farmer’s rye bread with butter The ham is cold-smoked over pine wood and this smoking process imparts a robust and distinctive smoky flavor. The saltiness is well-calibrated. Through careful curing and air-drying, the meat achieved a remarkably tender texture. It was a gastronomic experience to taste Black Forest ham as it had a harmonious balance of smokiness, seasonings and curing that resulted in a flavour that was both savoury and complex. Amazingly we managed to finish the seemingly large portion with ease.

For main we wanted to try a black forest trout (another regional specialty) but were not sure what would be the best cooking style. The staff recommended us to try the Fresh black forest trout “Gasthof style” Fresh from our basin, roasted in butter, garnished with mushrooms and herbs, round duchess potatoes & mixed salad.

We were thoroughly pleased with the outstanding suggestion. The local trout boasted a delicate and moist texture that perfectly complements the richness imparted by the buttery roasting process. The exterior had a delectable crispiness, adding a delightful contrast to the tender flesh within.

Even the round duchess potatoes side dish was surprisingly awesome! The mashed potato mixture piped into attractive, round shapes then baked until they achieve a golden-brown exterior. The swirled pattern was visually appealing and the airy yet creamy texture was a a treat for the taste buds.

Earlier Photos Taken:

Took this shot on the train while on our way to Triberg. This composition is literally the lyrics of a nursery rhyme 我家门前有小河后面有山坡山坡~

The train cabin was spacious and comfortable.

Saw a wall painting on the underpass during our walk from Triberg train station towards the old town.

This charming town in Black Forest region is home to World’s famous cuckoo clocks. We would be going to check them out after lunch.

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Exploring Freiburg im Breisgau (Freiburg)

On 2nd day of arriving in Germany, we made time to explore the town where we based ourselves for 3 nights while exploring the Black Forest region. Was on our way to visit the Schwabentor (Swabian Gate) when we passed by Bäckerei Pfeifle. Attracted by the bakeries on display, we popped to takeout a Butter Pretzel. German-style pretzels, are known for their distinctive knot-like shape, have a cultural significance and has become a symbol of the country’s baking tradition.

In the old town of Freiburg, you could find many round mosaic motifs laid in the pavement in front of the shops. I noticed that most of them correlate to what the shops are selling.

For lunch we headed to our favourite fast-food chain in EuropeNordsee. Specialising in seafood and good value-for-money, it has been our go-to for quick and satisfying meal.

Did a supermarket run and was astonished to see the price of the wines here…

Other Photos Taken:

Freiburg Minster is a distinctive landmark of the city and one of the most striking churches in the southwest Germany. It is said to be the only Gothic church tower in Germany that was completed in the Middle Ages (1330), and has survived the bombings during the war to last till the present.

Next to it is the Historical Merchants’ Hall. It has a very Hogwarts feel with the medieval Gothic style. The eye-catching coloured and elaborately ornate facade was magical.

Chanced upon this beautiful facade of Zum roten Baren (translation: The Red Bear) while on our way to the old city gate of Freiburg.

Martinstor is the older of the two old city gates in Freiburg. It looks pretty whimsical with the little turrets and has a rustic charm.

The famous Bächle, small canals that run through the Old Town were once used to bring water from the Dreisam river down to the city to feed livestock and fight fires. According to a legend from the Baden region, visitors who accidentally steps into the Bächle will inevitably marry a Freiburg citizen.

Gewerbekanal is the main canal that runs throught the old historic town. There is a crocodile statue in the canal.

Blue Bridge with the Sacred Heart Church in the background. This is a cyclepedestrian bridge spanning over the railway lines at the main railway station. Some people were even daring enough to walk on the arches of the bridge for photos.

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Hirschen in Lehen, Freiburg im Breisgau

Being well aware that we might be suffering from jet lag, we typically refrain from making dinner reservations in advance during the first/second day after arrival when travelling across multiple time zones.

However after our rather unremarkable day, we needed a booster to lift our spirits. Nothing beats ending our day with a sumptuous dinner. Therefore we made a reservation at a restaurant, inside hotel Hirschen in Lehen, known for serving traditional Baden-style (southwestern Germany) dishes. As expected, by 7pm we were fighting the urge to fall asleep due to jet lag.

Having done some homework on the Swabian cuisine in the region, I opted for the Flädlesuppe Beef broth with “Flädle” from the starter/soup section. It is a traditional German soup that consists of a broth with thin strips of flädle (pancakes). The clear but flavoursome beef consommé felt very comforting and soothing in the cold winter weather.

Although drinking alcohol may worsen my jetlag, I could not resist the chance to try a local wine. Especially when the option of 0.1 litre glass tasting portion was available. Ordered the Gutedel Laufener Altenberg, Trocken. Gutedel is an ancient white variety is both a popular table grape and a wine grape. Nice to sip some wine to pair with my main course of Winterkabeljau Winter cod on Champagne cabbage with glazed grapes, strips of bacon, butter crutons and mashed potatoes. The cod had firm flaky flesh with a crispy skin. The “champagne cabbage’ did not appear to be a variety of cabbage, based on the tangy taste I made a humble guess that it was “sauerkraut” (fermented cabbage). A well-executed and hearty dish.

Grilled Rumpsteak, roasted pink, with herb butter on a Bordelaise sauce, French fries. Interesting to note that this dish was prepared with Bordelaise sauce a classic French sauce. Freiburg im Breisgau is located near the border with France.

It had been quite a while since we last visited Europe countries and we forgotten how generous the food portions were. We were really stuffed and suffering from food coma (plus jet lag) by the end of our meal. Got to give the desserts a miss.

Delighted to savour our first substantial meal on this trip and we were ready to drift into a peaceful night’s sleep. Eagerly anticipating our return to our hotel in the charming old town area.

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