Covid restrictions had curtailed most leisure travellers’ holiday plans. Over the past 2 years, we only dined out on rare occasions as we tried to mitigate the risk of contracting Covid. Following my last visit to Mandala Club for the Mirazur pop-up in June a few months ago, I’m back at the same venue! Albeit this time round the place had been re-decorated and ready to host Chef Gaggan for at least half a year’s residency (which got extended to 8-months eventually).
The key difference between the Mirazur pop-up and Gaggan pop-up was that we did not eat at the former’s original home restaurant in France before. Whereas we had dined at Gaggan’s restaurant in Bangkok on 2 occasions (2015 & 2018). Therefore there was a tendency for me to draw comparison between the latest menu with our past experiences. Naturally there were also a certain level of expectations in terms of wanting to taste his signature dishes (dubbed as the “Greatest Hits”) again versus new creations that the Chef would be conjuring up.
I must say Chef prepped the guests well as we passed by this lighted display (above) while walking to our table!
Although Chef continued to adopt his emoji-style menu, he added a new twist to the game. Instead of presenting guests with a printed emoji menu, we were given a “Passport” along with a set of stamps on the table. Guests were encouraged to use our creativity to design the blank pages within the passport by documenting what we felt were the dishes served. So many a times the staff would only explain what the dish was after we finished it.
First up was the signature Yoghurt Explosion, we instinctively knew the emoji that represented this was the 💥. Instead of serving it on a spoon, this upgraded version was served on a green chutney crisp, adorned with more embellishments (including citrusy lemon, spicy chilli, a tint of coriander). You can feel the amalgation of flavours once you stuffed this into your mouth. Thereafter wait for the usual popping candy sensation. It literally felt that there’s a party in my mouth~
Up next was something that looked gory…. but fret not…this was not the real brain of any animal, just made to look like one. We could easily identify the corresponding stamp to use 🧠
The dish fit for Halloween party was introduced to us as Chlorophyll (brioche) and (brain) foie gras ice cream.
The 3rd dish required guests to point their middle finger 🖕 to receive the cone-shaped receptacle used to hold the ring shaped snack. Ingredients used include coriander, white chocolate and chilli. We were advised to eat it quickly before it melts and in one mouth – which was a bit of challenge for ladies due to its size.
After tasting two new dishes, a familiar looking dish made its appearance. The black charcoal ball was something that we ate before at his restaurant, however they always change up the filling inside so it requires a bit of guesswork to get this right. And the answer was Chicken Tikka Masala with butter tomato. Initially I couldn’t find an emoji that could represent this dish well…there’s no Dark Moon 🌑 stamp though… But I recalled that during our previous visit, we were told the black exterior is made from the skin of the eggplant 🍆.
Moving on was another dish which had the “same same but different” feel. The same Ghewar (crispy deep fried tart) was served with a different topping – truffle mushroom 🍄.
Up next was something which looked like a “cigar”. It was made with Thosai (or dosa), 🌴coconut meat, sichuan pepper, abalone served with Peking duck hoisin sauce. I reckoned you get the concept, its a Indian+Chinese fusion creation.
Well, we were told that this next dish was actually inspired by a character in Star Wars. Any guess? From the claws you might have guessed that it’s a kind of bird? Then you are right – it’s a tribute to Porg. This “drumstick” 🦴 was made from minced duck meat.
Sweet potato leaf, shiroi raw shrimp🦐, coconut meat
Chef is known to love Japan and you can trust that he knows his fishes well. The next dish was 🐟 Rosy sea bass (akamutsu aka black throat seaperch), pandan, coconut and ikura. A perfectly executed dish that ticked all the right boxes in terms textures and flavours, and what stood out for me was that it was created with a fusion touch.
Nothing goes to waste as Chef used the Fish bones to concoct a soup broth with addition of tamarind, tomatoes and herbs.
If there is a Best Food Presentation Award, it would go to this next dish – 🦆 Duck, pop rice, curry leaves. I loved how they plated the duck dish on a slate that resembles the terrace rice fields (like those in Bali). I hope I’m not overthinking but this seeks to reflect the agroecology of growing ducks and rice together in irrigated paddy fields?
❄️ Frozen cheese dome with seafood, uni, squid – wished the dome has prints of Death Star as it would make it look cooler than it already was.
A rice dish towards the end of the meal but this was the best dish of the night! White corn, peas, 🦀 crab curry, pandan. It looked deceptively plain and simple, but the curry was fabulous! I had to apportion the curry with the right amount of rice in each mouthful to avoid finishing the curry too quickly.
🍂 Autumn passion fruit, sake kasu (sake lees) ice cream
☕ Tiramisu coffee
There were both wine and juice pairing options available, we opted for one pairing each. Here’s the juices served: Apple fennel and ginger bulb, Dragon fruit and tongka, Pear juice with cardamom.
Beetroot hibiscus and Osmanthus kombucha with nectar honey.
For the wine pairing, there was a good variety. We started with Marie Courtin Résonance Pinot Noir Extra Brut (aperitif), Piquentum Teran Istria (Croatia wine), Envinate Paolo Blanco Vinos Atlanticos (Spain wine), La Ferme des Sept Lunes Saint Joseph Syrah wine, Sebastien Riffault Skeveldra, Loire Valley Sancerre wine and Meinklang Graupert Zweigelt Burgenland (Austrian wine).
My personalised emoji menu completed.
Recap of our visits to the restaurant and looking forward to visiting them again when they re-open in Bangkok.
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