Other than rejuvenating our souls at this renown spa town, we also pampered our culinary senses at Maltes hidden kitchen – a 1-Michelin starred casual fine dining establishment. We opted for 3-course menu with different choice for each of the starter/main/dessert, therefore allowing us to taste all the dishes on the 1-page menu.
With the task of packing our luggage post-dinner, we opted to forgo the wine pairing. Instead we chose to have 1 modest glass of wine each for the meal. We were recommended the Rully Les Saint-Jacques 2020 and Fritz Haag Juffer Sonnenuhr 2021 Riesling Auslese.
Culinary Harmony Macaron goose liver & mandarin (left) and Enoki mushroom wasabi (right). Crisp and slightly chewy petite macaron provided a textural contrast to the creamy and flavourful goose liver. It was followed by the towering fried enoki mushroom skewer drizzled with wasabi sauce.
Amuse Bouche Mussel with ponzu and yuzu. I’m enjoying the the Japanese flavours infused in the creative dishes here.
Bread with Malabar pepper from India with rosemary butter.
HareWinter Vegetables, Mole, Herbs. The hare, known for its robust and distinctive flavour is not something that we eat often. But we were confident that it would be well-prepared in fine dining restaurants. The Chef thoughtfully paired the gamey richness of hare with mole, a rich and complex sauce with roots in Mexican cuisine.
DumplingBeetroot, Cassis, “Belper Knolle”pickled corn, butter corn. The ball in the glass dome is not truffle but “Belper Knolle”. Originating from Switzerland, it is a unique and artisanal cheese known as “the truffle of cheeses“. I was once again fascinated by how the cuisines here always seems to remind me of Japan.
White Halibut Potato, Spinach, Caviar Beurre Blanc This dish showcases an artful blend of textures. The halibut, tender and flaky, was delicately topped with thinly sliced potatoes, expertly roasted to a delightful crisp. A final touch of sophistication came in the form of a spoonful of caviar, introducing yet another layer of texture. The mildness of the halibut was well complemented with the richness of the Beurre Blanc sauce.
Guinea Fowl Breast “Le Prince de Dombes from Mieral” Truffle, 3x Bean, Shallot This dish showcased a thoughtful curation of premium ingredients and culinary finesse. The guinea fowl breast, elevated by truffle accents, was accompanied by a trio of beans (French bean, edamame and one more) and caramelized shallot that brought a subtle sweetness and aromatic quality to the overall flavour profile.
Robiola Tris “Affineur Waltmann” Cranberry, Pumpernickel, Violet. The Robiola Tris, from artisanal affineur store that specializes in the art of aging and maturing cheese, is a slightly ripened cream cheese made from cow, goat and sheep milk. It sits on a slice Pumpernickel (dense, slightly sweet rye bread) which was then adorned with various floral and fruits garnishes.
Apple & CreamVanilla, Piedmont Hazelnut A visually pleasing dessert with a harmonious blend of sweet, creamy, and nutty flavors.
The restaurant operates as a cafe known as Kaffeehaus in Baden-Baden by day so we ordered black coffee to pair with our sweets. Petits fours Strawberry macaron, Nougat, Chocolate.
Decided to visit Reve for lunch based on a few factors. They are a newly minted 1-Michelin starred restaurant with an impressive record – the restaurant received their Michelin star (Jul 22) within a short span of 9 months from its opening. Secondly we were drawn by its French-Japanese fusion menu led by Executive Chef Kawano Masahiko (in 2022). Note that Chef has moved to another restaurant since August 23.
Typically I go for Dinner Menu instead of lunch due to work commitments. Afterall its a “luxury” to take leave off work for a leisure lunch. However during Covid period, I found myself stuck with leave to spare (with travel restrictions), hence we managed to visit a few restaurants for lunch. Based on observations, the lunch seating were pretty well taken up at most places we visited.
Opted for the Supérieur Menu (6-course) with wine pairing and started the meal with an elegant Champagne Devaux Cuvée Rosée. Starter was the light Oyster, Caviarkyoto oyster, tomato kombu jelly. The elements create a well-balanced dish with a fresh oceanic essence from the oysters, a burst of umami from the caviar and a sweet-tart contrast from the tomato kombu jelly.
The bread offering was certainly more Jap than French. They were bite sized and were really good – Milk bread, Rice flour bread mochi and French butter. Each had different textures and characteristics. The milk bread was fragrant, soft and pillowy while the mochi bread had nice chewy and slightly sticky texture.
The next wine pairing was Niida Shizenshu Genshu Junmai Sake to go with the seafood dishes.
Katsuo, Salt Lemonskipjack tuna with celariac miso, chives oil. Katsuo’s meaty richness was balanced by the bright and zesty notes of the salted lemon. The celeriac added a creamy texture, while the finishing chive oil added flavour and depth to the dish.
Fish of the day, Crustacean with Special Top up item – Miyagi Kuro Awabi (S$50). Great to know that the fish of the day was a prized fish in Japanese culinary traditions – Kinmedai. It was prepared with a crustacean sauce and black abalone with liver. The black abalone had a firm and chewy texture. After the first few chew, I could start to appreciate its sweet and delicate flavour.
There was a choice of 2 mains – French Duck, Sake Lees or Hokkaido A4 Wagyu (supplement – S$30). We had one of each so that we could taste them both. The red meat protein main was paired with 2015 Domaine Saint Gayan GigondasFontmariaRhone France.
Duck Consomme, Whole Grain Noodle was the highlight of the meal. The plain bowl of noodles (with no meat) was a heart warming comfort dish. It was light yet complex and full of flavours. There was something magical about the awesome stock that I could not describe. Needless to say I slurped up every drop of the stock.
Houjicha, Long Pepper Yuzu shansho, houjicha panacotta with caramel ice cream, shine muscat grape topped with chocolate hazelnut crumble was an interesting dessert showcasing many Jap elements. I would describe it as a mildly spiced tea with hints of fruitiness and nuttiness but deconstructed into dessert form.
Mignardiseswith Coffee or Tea – Red bean macaron, Financier, Hazelnut and Walnut cookie.
As we were not seated at the counter, we did not get to see much of Chef’s plating and preparation in action. However as with Japanese custom, the Chef came out to send us off when we were leaving.
Shortlisted to dine at Blue by Alain Ducasse as we originally planned to visit Wat Arun in the morning and IconSiam (where the restaurant is housed in) is within the area. Reservation was also a breeze using Chope website.
However we scrapped our plan to Wat Arun as we had not been sleeping well for the past 2 nights. Although there is only a 1 hour time zone difference between BKK and SIN, somehow I woke up a couple of times at night. As the best time to visit Wat Arun is either early in the morning or late afternoon, we aborted our plan. (We managed to visit Wat Arun in Dec 22 when the weather was cooler). We were also being extra cautious as Thailand had lifted the requirement to wear masks in public space, we ended up simply chilling in our hotel in the morning.
IconSiam, located on the banks of the Chao Phraya river, is a destination by itself as it is a high-end mega-mall that houses plenty of luxury shops. Blue by Alain Ducasse scored an excellent unit offering an expansive river view for guests to enjoy while savouring their meal.
A 5-course set lunch and a 9-course menu were available for the afternoon. We went with the smaller menu along with the drinks package which included Water, Coffee/Tea and 2 Mocktails.
Being seated at one of the tables next to the full height window was a great plus as we got plenty of wonderful natural lighting. The photos certainly turned out really well.
Started our meal with the bright orange Taco with egg and the cute mini Tuna puff. If you find the former snack very familiar looking, you are not alone. These resembles Khanom Buang (Thai crispy pancakes) and it appeared during our dinner at 80/20 the night before. Despite the similarity in terms of appearance, the version here was closer to the original street snack with egg yolk thread fillings.
Apart from its alluring colour, the warm and crispy Mediterranean puff tasted equally impressive with tuna stuffing and red pepper jelly topping.
More exquisite creations followed, with the Foie gras mousse with quinoa sitting daintily on the wooden spoon and the delicately layered Beetroot and duck tart. The fancy canapés were executed with great finesse.
Amuse bouche was the aphrodisiacal Oyster with ginger lemon vinaigrette. The choice to feature a succulent and plump oyster resonates well with the “ocean” theme of the restaurant. The condiments were prepared using various techniques resulting in a combination of different textures. The splendid composition was well-noted when we pop the oyster in one mouthful.
The fluffy and tender warm brioche was delish.
Although Blue by Alain Ducasse is known as a contemporary French restaurant, this visually stunning dish of Hokkaido Sea Scallops rhubarb and rose bud seem to bear a Japanese vibe. At first glance, I spotted the Japanese wave pattern created by layering the rhubarb slices; on second look, it appears to be a mountain range landscape basking under the glow of a setting sun. As I paused to admire this dish, I felt as if I’m looking at a beautifully framed scene from ghibli animation. A stunningly elegant dish that’s too pretty to be destroyed~
Taste-wise, the rhubarb with scallops combination worked well as there was a balance between the tartness of the rhubarb with the delicate sweetness of the tender scallops underneath.
Lightly-Cooked Salmon French Brioche vin jaune sauce was a rather interesting dish. A salmon fillet coated with a crust made from brioche bread on both sides. The crust provides a crispy texture that contrasts nicely with the tender salmon. I’ve tasted another fish dish paired vin jaune sauce at other French restaurant – Orient Express Restaurant pop-up. Both were so well executed that they set a hard to surpass standard for fish dishes.
The next dish featured an ingredient that is new to me – Obsiblue Prawnsouffléedzucchini blossom, crustacean sauce with orange. Obsiblue is a rare delicacy native to New Caledonia, a French territory in the South Pacific. It is said to be farmed in a light turquoise lagoon, designated as UNESCO World Heritage site. While the prawn was pretty unique, what impressed me the most was the delicate ‘souffléedzucchini blossom‘. As a noob home cook, I think it would be challenging to execute this component to such perfection. From handling of the paper-thin petals, to folding of the soufflé mixture, and achieving the final outcome of a beautifully puffed soufflé that is light and fluffy.
The last main dish was Confit Pork Bellyroasted apple, cider jus served with polenta. The rich pork belly had a crispy crackling skin but tender, succulent meat. The creamy and smooth polenta provided a delightful contrast in texture. Its a harmonious and well-rounded dish.
From the choice of three desserts, we chose different ones for each guest.
Vanilla Ice Cream ‘Flood’ with Coffeefrom our Manufacture in Paris and praline. The mildly sweet, creamy vanilla ice cream was finished with rich, bitter espresso from Ducasse manufacture. The praline not only adds visual appeal, flavour-wise it elevates the dessert with a nutty accent.
The sweeter of the two desserts was Chocolate From Our Manufacture in Parishazelnut. This is a chocolate lover’s dream.
Our idyllic lunch was reaching the end after 1.5 hours. I thought it was remarkably efficient, while not feeling rushed. Round up my meal with a pot of fragrant Osmanthus oolong tea by Gryphon alongside with mignardises of Lemon tart, Opera cake and Choux pastry. I actually enjoyed the mignardises more than the dessert dishes!
Compared to the price of a having a 1-Michelin starred meal in Singapore, it was certainly value-for-money to dine in a 1-Michelin star French restaurant here in Bangkok, Thailand. It’s under S$100 for the set lunch (before tax and not including drinks) served in elegant dining hall with splendid view of the Chao Phraya river.
After 3.5 years break from my last visit to Bangkok, we were eager to satisfy our Thai food cravings. Tried our luck in getting a table at Sorn but was an agonizingly frustrating process. So 80/20 was our next choice with reservation available conveniently via Chope. I was drawn to their menu that features modern Thai cuisines. Later then I realised that Chef Andrew Martin had worked at Nahm, Bo.Lan, Issaya Siamese Club etc. He was in fact Chef de cuisine at 80/20 from 2016-2018.
Before we start our meal, the restaurant enquired on our tolerance level for spicy food. We gamely took on the challenge to try their standard/normal level. Also opted for the wine pairing which started with Champagne Lombard, Extra Brut Premier Cru.
Khanom BuangThai crepe, banana prawn, ivory mango is an interesting variation of the commonly seen street snack of Thai Crispy Pancake. The prawn and mango combination makes it a great starter, complimented by the aromatic fried shallots and crunchy thin crepe.
From one tropical fruit to another, next was the beautifully prepared Seasonal FruitLychee, prawn, peanut. With the seed removed and replaced with prawn filling, we were told to pop the succulent fruit in 1 bite (without the skin) into our mouth. Upon biting, the burst of sweet and aromatic floral notes instantly hit our palate.
Last snack were Moo Hom MangdaGrilled pork, rose apple, mangda and Jungle “Juice”Wild herbs, wild fruit, wild tea. The grilled pork checked all the boxes of having a crackling skin with a fat layer underneath. The greasiness was balanced with the punchy mangda (chilli paste), pickled gooseberries and crunchy rose apple. The slightly tart juice served as a palate cleanser before we progress into the actual course proper starting with several appetizers.
Headlining the appetizer course was a signature dish of Stormy SeaSquid, mangosteen, chili, said to be inspired by Chef’s squid-fishing trip in the south of Thailand and featured the national fruit – Mangosteen aka the ‘Queen of Fruits’. The broth itself has a complex amalgamation of flavours, with tartness, savoury, sweetness and spiciness. Paired with Blue Sand, Sauvignon Blanc,
Most people might be familiar with Tom Yum but we were introduced to a lesser known specialty amongst foreigners. Geang Som TalaySour curry, pineapple, seaweed is a Southern Thai sour curry. The version here was prepared with monkfish (not sure) and was an inviting dish with bold flavours. While Tom Yam is known for its spicy and tangy profile, Gaeng Som lean more towards a tangy and mildly sour taste.
We continued with the harvests from the ocean with Goong Pao Yang Fire roasted prawn, grilled tomato ‘nam jim’. Smoky umami flavour from the prawn was accentuated by the sweetness of the grilled tomato dipping sauce. Paired with Jean-Marc Brocard, Petit Chablis.
The last appetizer was a dish paying tribute to Yim Yim Restaurant (a legendary 120-year-old Teochew restaurant in Chinatown), Named Ped Yim YimDuck, chestnut, pork (Smile Smile Duck) it looks like a re-constructed Chinese dish which we probably know as “Eight Treasure Duck”. Subtle differences in terms of execution can be noted such as the use of dry-aged duck instead of being braised. Paired with Valserrano, Rioja Crianza.
Another palate refresher was served and this time round its the Lao KhaoRice wine. A toasted rice sorbet sitting on a bed of sliced grapes soaked in Thai rice whiskey.
For the main course, it was served in Thai communal dining style. Paired with Andrew Peace Masterpeace, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gap Khao which means “with rice” is a set of dishes served all at once (from top left to right):
Black pepper asparagus, egg, sweet sausage
Reef cod, crab relish, local herbs
Grilled flank steak, border nam prik, pork skin
Geang (curry), yum, jackfruit
Clay pot tumeric rice
Amongst the array of dishes, the hearty red curry was definitely the highlight. Though it might be a tad spicy for some people. The portioning of the dishes were well-measured, we could finish them (except for the rice).
Before progressing to desserts, we were presented with yet another palate cleaner Southern DrinkSom kaek (garcinia) & honey. The sweet-sour drink probably served as a great digestive aid after a rich and heavy meal.
Despite having finished serving the main dishes for all the tables, we still saw Chef Andrew Martin in the kitchen working together with the rest of his crew to prepare the desserts. At one point, we saw Chef athletically dashed out to hand over a scarf left behind by a guest. It was amazing to see Chef being so full of energy after a long day in the kitchen. He told us that he typically starts his day early to visit the markets to source for ingredients, he even made time to clock a run before starting his day in the kitchen.
Last two desserts to round up our meal was paired with Massolino, Moscato d’Asti. Khanom Chocolate YangChocolate, wild berries, black sesame was a delightful treat. Perhaps our palates were looking forward to something soothing to nurse our now “fiery” stomach filled with the spicy dishes.
Interestingly the chocolate dessert seemed to have “reset” our palates. Although at first glance, the 2nd dessert of Suan MaprowCoconut, guava, honey looked plain, we were able to appreciate its delicate flavours. I was not a guava lover but was blown away by how good it tastes here! The guava complemented by the nutty, creamy coconut flavours along with a hint of sweet honey. This pleasant experience gave me confidence to try guava juice for breakfast at my hotel the next morning!
Being a half-Japanese, Chef’s drew inspiration from his grandmother to present us with Petit FoursWhite & gold. Starting with a banana coconut mochi which was lightly grilled on the outer surface and finishing with a refreshing sorbet adorned with bits of gold foil.
Technically speaking this is the first time I’m having a full course meal by Chef Julien at Odette. My first encounter with Chef Julien‘s cooking was when he was still helming the space at Level 70 of the hotel in City Hall (JAAN, 2013). Subsequently we visited Odette at their current premise when there was a four-hands dinner with Chef Takazawa (Takazawa x Odette). On this current visit, there was a sense of familiarity and also excitement to try newly created dishes.
On both occasions where we dined at the current Odette premise, we were seated not at the main hall but the side section which does not have a view of the kitchen. I’m not sure if it’s because most of the tables for 2 pax were situated away from the main section; or perhaps it’s crucial to make reservation in advanced and indicate the seating preference for them to try to accommodate to the requests. If you prefer cosy corner, the side room would offer more privacy away from the bustling hall which is comparatively more open. My key gripe was again the rather dim lighting at the restaurant. I had the same sentiment when I last dined here too. It felt worse this time as I had to squint my eyes to read the relatively small fonts on the printed set menu. Guess part of the reason was I’m getting on age and starting to develop presbyopia….some of the photos didn’t turned out well (which was kinda disappointing to look at while I was writing this post).
Amuse-bouche of onion tart, 36-months aged cheese, saba taco. Really enjoyed this trio of snacks filled with richness, creaminess and complimented with the crispy crusts~
More snacks served – Mushroom tea and Truffle brioche. This snack was a play of earthy flavour with the alluring umami of truffle~
Ended the snacks tasting with a decadent uni toast – which was one of the signature. Thereafter bread selection was served alongside butter with parsley and garlic.
The formal course began with Asperges Blanches De Mazan Hokkaido uni, Granny smith, Kristal caviarsus. Jaw-dropping combination of all my favourite delicacies. I swear the picture doesn’t do justice to this dish (and the other dishes too…).
The next dish was light and refreshing Normandy Brown Crab Avocado, Nashi pear, Coriander. The sweetness of the delicate crustacean meat left a lasting impression on my palate.
For the 3rd course, we opted to switch one of our set course item to a supplement dish. The standard dish was a signature of the restaurant which we had tasted before – Rosemary Smoked Organic Egg Smoked potato syphon, Chorizo Iberico, Meuniere.
Therefore we switched one dish to the Raviole De Langoustine Shiso, Black Truffle, Bisque which requires a top-up of $108. Yes…$108. If you order this as an additional course it will cost $128. But was it worth it? My answer is a resounding Yes. The entire experience began when the service staff place the plate of raviole in front of me. I could smell the alluring aroma of the umami-packed bisque. Next comes the grating of the black truffle where whiffs of the musky and oaky smell wafts towards you. All these builds up the anticipation before you scoop up the bisque and take your first sip of it. After the initial wave of euphoria, you then take a bite of the al-dente raviole and wait to be amazed by the second wave of wonder. Needless to say we slurped up every drop of the luscious bisque.
With our minds still reeling in from the stunning raviole, we were presented with a bowl of clear-looking soup. This is Bouillon ‘Paysan’ Foie Gras, Abalone, Shiitake – a signature dish inspired by Singapore‘s Bak Kut Teh. What took me by surprise was this is first time (I think) I tasted poached foie gras as typically foie gras are pan seared. The warm savoury yuzu-infused pork broth somehow helps to refresh the palate while elevating the flavours of the creamy melt-in-your-mouth foie gras; and the chargrilled chewy abalone. There was an amalgation of complex flavours in this “plain-looking” dish. Yet another stunning course~
Compared to the two extraordinary dishes earlier, the Basque Country Monkfish Stuffed morel, Swiss chard, Vin jaune may seem less spectacular. But this dish also featured exquisite ingredients such as the prized morel and the “yellow wine”.
Before the next main course, we were given a sneak preview: pigeon roasted on the crown and smoked with rosemary & thyme, which would be portioned out for us later.
Here’s the plated Kampot Pepper Crusted Pigeon Beetroot, Black garlic, Confit leg. After finishing the meat using fork and knife, guests were advised to pick up the “leg” to finish off the final bit of flesh. Thereafter we could unwrap the roll of white paper around the bone to uncover some hidden messages. We guessed that it could be the the origin or “serial number” of the pigeon…haha. Turns out we were half-right. There were fun facts printed on each piece.
“We source our pigeons specially from Monsieur Fabien Deneour in Plounéour–MénezFinistère, Brittany.”
“The crust uses amazing Kampot peppers from Norbet Binot of Kampot Jewels.”
Palate cleanser of apple matcha
Calamansi & Thai Basil Tart Sable Breton, Yuzu, Coconut
Drinks Pairing
Sadie Family, Swartland, Palladius 2017
Pazo Senorans, Albarino Seleccion de Anada 2011
Domaine de Montbourgeau, Jura, L’Etoile 2017 and Cls Cibonne, Provence, Marius 2017 (for Egg & Raviole respectively)
Planned a visit to Sushi Kimura on the seventh day of the first lunar month, which is also known to be 人日 aka considered to be the birthday of ordinary, or common men. As with other sushi-yas, there is a long wood counter that can seat about 16 (?) guests made from a 150-year old Hinoki wood. Did not take a shot as there were already other diners seated.
There were 3 menus to choose from for lunch (from $180 – $450) and we opted for the mid-range Raku menu.
Starter was the refreshing cold appetizer of Yuba & Ikura Dashi Jelly.
Next was Seasonal Chawan Mushi – which at the time of our visit featured eggs from Oita, snow crab, bamboo shoots and spring water from Hokkaido. I was pretty impressed with the flavours of this dish, even the “bamboo shoots snob” next to me finished it all.
One of the reason why we opted for the mid-range menu was this next item – Tender Cooked Hokkaido Abalone. The chinese name gave a clue on how it was prepared – i.e Sake steamed Ezo Awabi 蝦夷鮑酒蒸. The abalone was chewy and rich in umami. It was well complemented with the nori seaweed from Saga. I slurped up all the “essence” in the bowl~ Glad to have opted for the menu which included this dish!
Assorted Sashimi & Vegetables was next (left) comprising of Saba (mackerel), Kinmedai and Ark clam. Although the vegetables seems to be an accompaniment, no effort was spared in prepping them, as you could see how the pea was delicately sliced. After the raw fishes, we were presented with Grilled Fish (right) of Japanese pomfret.
Moving on to the Nigiri Sushi Course, we began with 3 types of White Fish: Hirame (flounder), Tai (red snapper) and Hata (grouper). The vinegared rice used for the sushi course left an impression for being very well prepared. According to the restaurant, other than the specially curated organic vinegar and rice from Japan, spring water from Hokkaido was used to cook the rice!
Highlight was the two nigiris featuring Wild Blue Fin Tuna. One was Marinated maguro (above) and the other being otoro lightly seared with binchotan (below).
Silver Skin Fish – Aji and Seasonal Prawn.
The Chef served us the fried prawn head as a snack before we move on to the last rice roll of Seasonal Clam.
Rice Bowl of Negitoro ikura uni & Onion Soup
Eggs – Tokyo-style and Kyoto-style made with katsuo dashi. The tokyo style is sweeter while the kyoto style is more fluffy and tender. I certainly preferred the latter.
Dessert – Strawberry & Dried freeze Persimmon from Toyama. Served with Jack Bean tea.
Zén took over the white house on Bukit Pasoh Rd after Chef Andre closed his then 2-Michelin starred restaurant and relocated out of Singapore. For me it has been a decade since I last dined inside this building – I recently dropped by Zen to grab their covid period takeout waffles a few months ago~
Back in 2019, we missed the chance to visit Chef Björn Frantzén‘s Michelin-starred eponymous restaurant in Stockholm, we even took a photo of the restaurant door when we happened to pass by it. We said to ourselves – we could still try their outpost helmed by Executive Chef Tristin Farmer back in Singapore. Instead we visited The Flying Elk – then still operating under the Frantzén Group but was subsequently sold in August 2019.
Two+ years later, we were certainly excited to try out Frantzen‘s first Asia outpost (opened in 2018), hoping to relieve the unique flavours we enjoyed in fine dining restaurants in Scandinavia region.
Once you enter the “house”, guests would be lounging in the foyer area to enjoy snacks, canapes and pre-dinner drinks. Here we were presented with Blini Aburi Chutoro & N25 caviar, ‘Råraka’Kalix Löjrom and Croustade Lobster, artichoke & sancho pepper. Each of them deserves a special mention for their exquisiteness.
For the caviar connoisseur, the N25 which also originates in high-altitude farms in Yunnan, China (on the 25° north latitude) and aged in Germany is known for its unique nutty & floral aroma, packed with reminiscence of ocean umami. The buttery and rich caviar was well paired with the fatty chutoro.
Not wanting to let the caviar take centre stage, the next snack featured the Kalix löjrom (“Caviar of Kalix”) which is the king of Swedish caviars. Rårakor (or Råraka) is a classic Swedish dish similar to Swiss Rösti but the Swedish often eat the potato cakes with caviar roes – served on a plate. The version at Zén had the finely shaved potatoes delicately rolled up and plated into a pretty bite sized snack. What a wonderful feast both for our visual and palate sensors~
Last snack of croustade had crispy light crust, with chewy lobster meat topped with a tinge of citrusy peppery taste. I was absolutely stoked by the trio of snacks! So looking forward to the rest of the evening~
After finishing the snacks, we were invited to the kitchen counter and introduced to the fresh ingredients displayed. This would be a sneak preview of what would be served later. It certainly whetted my appetite.
During which, while listening to the staff’s briefing, we were presented with Gunkan Chevreuil & elderberry and Kombubeignet truffle, nutmeg. The former, had cheveuil aged in beeswax and served as tartare, grilled unagi, topped with apple pearls. On the right was the decadent foie gras parfait filled doughnut, which was also sold as a takeaway during the covid lockdown – but I didn’t managed to try it till now.
After finishing our snacks, we went up a short flight of stairs to the main dining room for the proper dishes. The lighting was a tad too dark for photo taking as the main light source was a candle on our table. So pardon the poor image quality…
We started with a refreshing Crudo:Aged shima aji, heirloom tomato, arabica coffee, ikura, bergamot. This was pretty typical of what we anticipated from Scandinavian cooking. Aging the firm and fatty shima aji supposedly brings out a better flavour profile.
From one classic cold appetizer, we moved on to another classic dish. However this took me by surprise as it was a Chawanmushitokubushi (baby abalone), cauliflower & hojicha dashi, horseradish, Bafun Uni – an elegant dish which was warm and comforting. The custard was made using Hokkaido milk infused with katsuobushi. The tokobushi was braised in ginger dashi and grilled over binchotan. I almost thought that I was in a Japanese restaurant.
Scallopgarum, dehydrated roe, pumpkin hot sauce, finger lime, spruce. Garum is a relatively new condiment to me but it’s presence was increasingly felt in fine-dining restaurants. This fermented fish sauce had its origins back to Roman times and its recent revival was attributed to one of the World’s most influential restaurant – Noma. The garum used here is made from the skirt of the scallop – making full use of the ingredient to minimise food wastage. Garum is said to be able to amplify the natural flavor of the meat, which in this case was the hand-dived scallop from Scotland. The other interesting ingredient was the finger lime. Finger limes are a citrus fruit native to Australia – I last heard of it when dining in Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Sydney. However I saw the ingredient in its original form for the first time here at Zen as the staff plated this dish at the tableside (as well as at the ingredients box presentation earlier). When cut opened, the core comprises of tiny caviar-like spheres (like tobiko), the colour depends on the varieties yellowish-green to pink. This dish had an amalgamation of flavours and textures all packed within each bite.
If one had been to the Scandinavian region, you would probably realised that they are obsessed with Liquorice! It’s everywhere in the Nordics! This velouté of Onion, almond & liquorice is a Frantzén signature which was on the menu at the OG restaurant since 2008. I personally felt that liquorice has an acquired taste…I certainly didn’t like liquorice candy…hence I was initially apprehensive about having this. However I found this soup very palatable, as the liquorice was really subtle. They used Raw organic liquorice from liquorice roots from Lakrids by Bulow. In fact after you drink the soup, the flavours slowly unravels on your palate layer by layer – from the initial sweetness of the onion, to the nuttiness of almond and finishing with earthy undertones of the liquorice.
Having spotted the bottled of 2012 Arbois Vin Jaune during the ingredients showcase and was looking forward to the dish that would be prepared using it. This yellow wine is known as King of the Wines and must be aged a minimum of six years. I last had a fish dish prepared with Vin Jaune at the Orient Express Restaurant pop-up and was pretty impressed by it. Excited to taste it this time served as Monkfishwhite truffle, Vin Jaune, sprouted walnut.
The second protein dish was Aged duckquince & pine nut ‘polenta’, shiitake, foie gras, sauce vierge. The Challandais duck was aged in-house for 4 weeks, glazed with orange blossom honey, Ceylon cinnamon & fennel seed; then grilled and slowly baked. Served with the sauce vierge which is a French sauce made from olive oil, lemon juice, chopped tomato and chopped basil.
To round up the main course, we were presented with a variation of Frantzén‘s iconic French Toast. Instead of freshly grated truffles sitting on top, it was replaced with a double marinated Black Angus bresaola. French toastdouble marinated beef, unagi, foie gras, parsley & Japanese mustard emulsion.
During covid lockdown when the restaurant could not open for dine-in, they sold “limited period” waffle sandwiches for takeaway at $20 a piece. I managed to taste them on the very last (or 2nd last day) of them selling it. The heart-shaped Swedish waffles which were thin and crispy were fabulous! So I was eager to try it again, this time round not in sandwich style.
For the dine-in version, we had the Tea, milk & honeyyuba, pumpkin seed, lavender honey, banana & jasmine waffle. The tea is jasmine pearl tea named because the tea leaves are rolled into pearl shape and infused with the aroma of jasmine flowers. Similarly for the honey they did not use any ordinary honey but a mikan honey from Kyoto.
After finishing the ice cream and waffle, we moved up to the top floor of the restaurant “Living Room” for the finale.
Here we were presented with an array of snacks along with fresh fruits from Japan.
(first row from top) Mont blancrum & raisin, foie gras & white truffle, Sable BretonBlueberry, pepper meringue & brown cheese.
(second row) Chocolate liquorice, 100 years old balsamic vinegar added to chewy beetroot with artic raspberry, Macaron Hoshigaki & mikan, Fudge Black garlic & liquorice, JelloYuzu, fennel & batak pepper.
The 3-hour long dinner had well-portioned dishes (note: for a female eater) and was well-paced. I managed to finish everything. We had a drinks pairing and a non-alcoholic pairing, if you are interested in the details of the drinks here it is:
Drinks Pairing
Apple Eric Bordelet, Sydre Argellette 2017 Normandy
Tamasakae Schichi Hon Yari Kokoku 2018 Shiga
Gruner Veltliner Nikolaihof Im Wingebirge Baumpresse 2013 Wachau
Basque Kitchen by Aitor first opened in Amoy street back in 2018 and relocated to the Fullerton Waterboat House in 2021. While there were good number of Spanish restaurants in Singapore, this place touted to be one that focused on Basque cuisine. Having visited the Basque region a few years ago (★Arzak and ★Azurmendi), I’m truly impressed by the food there. For a few short days, we stayed in San Sebastian – a coastal city with many fabulous beaches where we roamed the chilly streets (as it was Winter season). Therefore I found it apt to house Basque Kitchen by Aitor at their current location, right next to the entrance of the old Singapore river.
Amuse bouche designed based on the four elements of Basque cooking: Air – represented by the cloud shaped meringue, Earth – potato with autumn truffle, sitting on a bed of green carpet, Water – didn’t register what was this – it’s something with ginger, but visually it looked like some lit candles floating above water (with shells/coral stones underneath) and Fire – also didn’t register what was this.
Warm bread of a few variety was presented – Rye sourdough, mini baguette and milk bun, served with their homemade smoked butter.
If you have trypophobia, I would suggest you skip looking at the picture of the next dish – HegaluzeCured Bonito, Tomato Essence, Chive Oil. To me, its a beautifully plated masterpiece. The clean refreshing taste of the tomato essence balanced the richness of the fish. This was my favourite dish of the meal~ The dish was brilliantly paired with the crisp and slightly acidic Txakoli “Aitaren”, Euskadi 2018.
While the main ingredient of the next dish might sound kinda exotic, it appears to be a regular feature when we dined at a few Michelin-starred establishments in Barcelona (Enigma & El Celler de Can Roca). However the way it made its appearance here in Basque Kitchen was less intimidating for us than what we saw at Enigma. Because after being deep-fried, you don’t actually see its original form. The mysterious ingredient is….Sea Anemone! Itsas AnemoneSea Anemone, Bomba Rice, Plankton Aioli, Sea Succulents has a crunchy piece of the plankton-eating sea anemone sitting right at the top. Come to think of it, if I can eat jellyfish, eating sea anemone is not such a scary idea… afterall they belong to the same group of invertebrates. This dish was paired with an organic and biodynamic wine of Chateau de la Roche aux Moines Les Vieux Clos Savienieres, France 2018 – 100% Chenin Blanc.
We continued to be pampered by more ocean harvests with the next dish of LegatzaCharcoal Grilled Line Caught Hake, Razor Clams, Flat Beans, Salsa Verde paired with the light and refreshing Le Clos Saint Vincent “Le Clos” Rose, Bellet, France 2020 – 100% Braquet. The hake was perfectly grilled to achieve a nice crisp on its skin yet retaining the moistness of its flesh.
In Basque, txuleta (pronounced ‘chuleta’) refers to a huge slab of Flintstone-style rib cuts of at least a kilo from old cattle which can go up to 18 years old. Speaking of chargrill cooking from Basque, it would be dream come true if we were lucky enough to dine at the renowned Asador Etxebarri aka Basque’s king of the barbecue. It is a restaurant that remains on our To-Eat list if we have the chance to visit the region again.
Instead of 18-year old beef from Spain, we were served TxuletaCharcoal Grilled Robbins Island Wagyu Loin, Smoked Aomori Garlic Mousseline, Beef Jus from Tasmania, Australia. The beef was grilled on Josper Basque grill to achieve the results of smoky charcoal flavour with a nice charred crisp on the edge and juicy meat in the centre. The flavoursome red meat dish was paired with the Tempos Vega Sicilia “Alion” Ribera Del Duero, Spain 2015 – 100% Tempranillo.
Before moving on to the dessert, we had a palate cleanser of SagarraGreen Apple Sorbet, Apple Jelly, Compressed Apple.
Finishing our meal with tropical vibe dessert of KokoaFresh Coconut, Lemongrass Infused Sago, Coconut Ice Cream paired with Rum, Renaissance, Taiwan, 2016 & 2018.
Finally back in the same dining hall after 8 years, albeit this time the restaurant is helmed by Chef Kirk Westaway. We were pretty lucky that the weather was fine on the day of our visit when it had been raining for the past few afternoons. Having a table by the full length window meant that we had a sweeping view of the Marina Bay area. The National Day Parade rehearsal was underway with occasional jet fighters zooming by and helicopters hovering around the floating platform.
Shortly after settling down in our seats, the service staff pushed the aperitif trolley over. Our minds were set on turning it down as we planned to go for the wine pairing, but one stellar bottle caught my eye – IWA 5 sake, Japan. That was it~ I shall have a glass of the exclusive sake. IWA is a new sake from Japan created by former Dom Pérignon Chef de Cave Richard Geoffroy. IWA 5 comprises three varieties of rice (Yamada Nishiki, Omachi and Gohyakumangoku), five strains of yeast and the regimes of fermentation. The drink was velvety smooth and balanced. It definitely gave me the confidence to snag a bottle if I have the chance to.
Also picked the Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs, England, a sparkling wine from Sussex which was dry and crisp.
Our lunch commenced with an amazing quartet of snacks to be eaten in the same order (clockwise starting from lower right)Cucumber Meringue , Black Olive & Chickpea, Buckwheat Waffleand Goose Mousse. Using one word to describe each of them: Airy, Crunchy, Creamy and Crispy. The gratifying small bites got us excited for what’s more to come!
We did not wait long before they presented the Roast Leek & Potato Soup served with a wonderful golden brown brioche with flaky outer layers and an airy body. Just when our olfactory sensors picked up the scent of the buttery bread, the staff added another alluring smell into the mix by pouring the aromatic mushroom stock into the rich and creamy soup.
As if the brioche was just a teaser, next came the warm sour dough bread served with butter from Devon and Cornish Sea Salt. Both Devon and Cornwell form the far southwest tip of England.
My favourite dish of the meal was this beautiful Sweet Summer Tomato Basil, Olive. I was blown away by how refreshing this dish was. The sweet and tangy flavours paired well with the minty/peppery basil sorbet. Paired with Maximin Grünhaus Riesling Monopol.
Hens Egg Aubergine was served in classic English breakfast style with toasted soldiers. Hidden in the huge egg-shell shaped vessel was the soft-boiled egg covered with shaved black truffles, it was a fun presentation. There was also a “mini-egg” side of cauliflower mash topped with Kristal caviar. Paired with Domaine du Pelican Arbois Savagnin Ouillé.
Thereafter we moved on to the fish and meat courses. Starting with Norwegian CodViolin Courgette served with a cream sauce of capers, chives and green dill oil. Paired with Graci Etna Bianco Arcuria.
Organic ChickenHerbed Potato The roulade chicken was covered with a coating of crackling, baked chicken skin. Paired with Damijan Podversic Kaplja.
Palate cleanser was an innovative interpretation of the quintessentially British brew – Earl Grey Milk Tea with a sorbet, Bailey foam, tea jelly and pomelo, served in a teacup.
Guests get to choose their choice of dessert from 2 options. We opted one each so that we could taste both variety. One was a traditional English dessert consisting of a mixture of strawberries or other berries, meringue, and whipped cream – Strawberry Eton MessYoghurt.
Another option was Milk ChocolateCoffee (above). Paired with M. Chapoutier Banyuls Rimage Domaine de Bila-Haut.
Mignardises (left to right)- Tea cookie, lemon meringue tart, coffee praline and almond caramel.
As much as I enjoyed the meal, the wine pairing was equally splendid featuring a good variety of wines from different terroirs and countries: Germany, France and Italy.
With my eyes glancing between the google map on my phone and looking up to keep a lookout for the signage of the restaurant we booked, we finally arrived at the marked location along Boat Quay. Don’t be alarmed if the restaurant on street level does not seem to be an Italian restaurant because you would find a narrow, dimly lit lobby which is fitted with a tiny lift nestled between two shopfront units. Step into the lift and punch the Level 5 button, when the door open you would be greeted by this compact foyer displayed with many accolades of Braci.
The main dining hall of the restaurant (which has a really modest seating capacity) is housed on Level 5 together with an open-kitchen, but we were led up a short flight of stairs to the roof-top level.
On the rooftop level, they have an open-air terrace facing the Singapore River with a small cocktail bar.
Having made my lunch reservation at 12 noon, I’m glad that instead of sitting out at the open-air terrace, we were offered one of the high tables along the hallway.
Started with some snacks: White Corn Pufffortina cheese, paprika, saffron, Hokkaido white corn and Artichokewith elderflower vinegar (iirc). Love the warm puff stuffed with creamy cheese and sweet white corn while the single bite artichoke helped to whet our appetite.
Next we were introduced to the DOP Altamura breadserved with EVOO made using Cima di Bitonto olives from the chef’s own farm in Italy.
Having the DOP or Denominazione di Origine Protetta designation meant that the food products origins are identifiable in the taste, texture or “perfume” of the product and produced in a specific region with all ingredients coming from that region. Hence this Altamura bread is flown in from Puglia, Italy weekly. I guess we must thank Chef–Restaurateur Beppe De Vito and Head Chef Mirko Febbrile for bringing in this exquisite bread from their hometown.
This bread is indisputably the best bread I had ever eaten in fine-dining restaurants! It had a crisp brown crust with a nice yellowish coloured interior. It’s exceptional texture – combination of chewy yet springy, made this pretty extraordinary.
We took the 3-course Executive Lunch menu which had 2 options each for appetizer and main course. As the restaurant does not require both guests to have the same dish, we managed to try all the selections from the lunch set.
Appetizer was White Asparagussalsa verde, bottarga and nero di seppiaserved with a tiny bit of shichimi and ground pepper on the side or Hand Dived Scallopsunchokes and smoked ikura.
The white asparagus was “painted” like a piece of art ~ Might not be that visible from the photo but the white asparagus was coated with a base of beurre blanc before being drizzled with the green sauce, cured fish roe and squid ink.Although I’m a big seafood lover, this white asparagus dish won my heart over the scallop.
Main was either the tortellini or a protein dish (with supplement of $18). Look at the cute looking Delica Pumpkin Tortellinitropea onions and bone marrow jus. Tortellini are said to be dumpling inspired by Venus’ navel. Somehow the ones served reminded me of another female anatomy when I reviewed the photo 😅
Looks (& jokes) aside….if you are a squash lover, its guaranteed that you would be raving about these pillowy tortellini! The delicate to make pasta with plump fillings checked all the right boxes with the ideal texture and sweet-nutty-earthy flavours.
After tasting this dish, I’m curious to try Braci’s signature 32 egg yolks tagliolini:murasaki sea urchin and ossetra caviar. This dish is only available with selected menus with a supplement of $42. But I’m pretty confident that it would be worth the price tag.
Exotic game meat such as pigeon and quail were more commonly found. This is probably the first time I saw guinea fowl on a menu in Singapore(pardon me if its due to my own ignorance).
Grilled Guinea Fowlblack garlic and stuffed morels mushroom The guinea fowl meat is said to be a healthier choice for its low fat content. Therefore it is drier and leaner than chicken meat – good for folks who like chicken breast.
The highlight of the plate above was the morel mushroom. They are one of the most expensive mushrooms in the World. The morel mushroom by itself already packs an intense earthy and nutty flavour. More complexity and depth was introduced when stuffed with pine nuts and black trumpet mushrooms. Yup stuffed, because there is a narrow hollow cavity running the length of the mushroom.
Round up the lunch with last course of Amalfi Lemons Tortinoraspberry sauce and strawberry sorbet. Coffee & Tea are included in the menu as well.
Last but not least, petit fours of Spherified bubble of white peach, sake and Nama chocolate, dusted with sundried tomato powder and finished with a crispy sage leaf. They not only looked lovely but taste wonderful too! What a sweet ending to our lunch.
YummyDelight 