★ Maltes hidden kitchen, Baden-Baden

Other than rejuvenating our souls at this renown spa town, we also pampered our culinary senses at Maltes hidden kitchen – a 1-Michelin starred casual fine dining establishment. We opted for 3-course menu with different choice for each of the starter/main/dessert, therefore allowing us to taste all the dishes on the 1-page menu.

With the task of packing our luggage post-dinner, we opted to forgo the wine pairing. Instead we chose to have 1 modest glass of wine each for the meal. We were recommended the Rully Les Saint-Jacques 2020 and Fritz Haag Juffer Sonnenuhr 2021 Riesling Auslese.

Culinary Harmony Macaron goose liver & mandarin (left) and Enoki mushroom wasabi (right). Crisp and slightly chewy petite macaron provided a textural contrast to the creamy and flavourful goose liver. It was followed by the towering fried enoki mushroom skewer drizzled with wasabi sauce.

Amuse Bouche Mussel with ponzu and yuzu. I’m enjoying the the Japanese flavours infused in the creative dishes here.

Bread with Malabar pepper from India with rosemary butter.

Hare Winter Vegetables, Mole, Herbs. The hare, known for its robust and distinctive flavour is not something that we eat often. But we were confident that it would be well-prepared in fine dining restaurants. The Chef thoughtfully paired the gamey richness of hare with mole, a rich and complex sauce with roots in Mexican cuisine.

Dumpling Beetroot, Cassis, “Belper Knolle” pickled corn, butter corn. The ball in the glass dome is not truffle but “Belper Knolle”. Originating from Switzerland, it is a unique and artisanal cheese known as “the truffle of cheeses“. I was once again fascinated by how the cuisines here always seems to remind me of Japan.

White Halibut Potato, Spinach, Caviar Beurre Blanc This dish showcases an artful blend of textures. The halibut, tender and flaky, was delicately topped with thinly sliced potatoes, expertly roasted to a delightful crisp. A final touch of sophistication came in the form of a spoonful of caviar, introducing yet another layer of texture. The mildness of the halibut was well complemented with the richness of the Beurre Blanc sauce.

Guinea Fowl BreastLe Prince de Dombes from MieralTruffle, 3x Bean, Shallot This dish showcased a thoughtful curation of premium ingredients and culinary finesse. The guinea fowl breast, elevated by truffle accents, was accompanied by a trio of beans (French bean, edamame and one more) and caramelized shallot that brought a subtle sweetness and aromatic quality to the overall flavour profile.

Robiola TrisAffineur WaltmannCranberry, Pumpernickel, Violet. The Robiola Tris, from artisanal affineur store that specializes in the art of aging and maturing cheese, is a slightly ripened cream cheese made from cow, goat and sheep milk. It sits on a slice Pumpernickel (dense, slightly sweet rye bread) which was then adorned with various floral and fruits garnishes.

Apple & Cream Vanilla, Piedmont Hazelnut A visually pleasing dessert with a harmonious blend of sweet, creamy, and nutty flavors.

The restaurant operates as a cafe known as Kaffeehaus in Baden-Baden by day so we ordered black coffee to pair with our sweets. Petits fours Strawberry macaron, Nougat, Chocolate.

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Lahnyai Nusara, Bangkok

Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, a co-owner of the Michelin-starred Bangkok restaurant Le Du, opened Nusara in June 2020 and the sister restaurant Lahnyai Nusara in November 2021.

We couldn’t a get seat at the old location of Nusara (they shifted to a larger space in Apr 2023, so reservation might be easier now), so we booked Lahnyai Nusara instead. The difference between the two? At Nusara, the focus is more on authentic and traditional Thai recipes from Chef’s grandmother. At Lahnyai, he still pays tribute to his grandmother (lahnyai translates to “grandmother’s boy”) by using her recipes but gave them a playful and contemporary edge. 

Although it was only a 10-mins car ride from our hotel, the journey took almost 45 mins instead and we ended up almost half an hour late. My sincere apologies to the restaurant. The traffic jam caught us by surprise as the restaurant is located along the same stretch as Banyan Tree Bangkok/COMO Metropolitan– where Nahm is. Anecdotally, the traffic jams in Bangkok seemed to have worsen after Covid.

Interest to note – Lahnyai Nusara is one of 3 restaurants establishments housed under one roof within Baan Turtle building which is a huge villa.

The restaurant occupies a cozy lounge-like space with a kitchen counter facing the diners. One of the many photos hung on the wall featured the Grandma with Chef Ton and his brothers inside. It was pretty easy to spot Chef Ton who had retained his boyish look. His younger brother “Tam” who is the sommelier at the establishment verified our guess as to who’s who when he noticed us staring at the picture.

  • TEASERS

Golden cup, Scallion mousse, Caviar is akin to Krathong Thong but with a twist. Instead of typical fillings, the version here had spring onion mousse, topped with decadent Caviar. I read that the restaurant used caviar produced by a Thai Sturgeon Farm in Hua Hin. In Thai culture, the symbol of the “golden cup” is often associated with prosperity and abundance.

Choux, Chicken, Curry is akin to Thong Plu (fried flour balls).

Shrimp, Dried Coconut, Cream is akin to Khanom Buang (Thai crispy pancake). This was the 3rd time it appeared at our meals – first at 80/20, then at Blue by Alain Ducasse and now. Did the restaurants all collaborated to promote this street snack? Guess I need to try buying it from the street vendors to try the OG version.

  • PRELUDE

Egg, Crab, Caviar, Black Truffle steamed egg (chawanmushi) with coconut milk-based chilli paste, crab meat, truffle shavings and caviar.

“Tang Mo Pla Hang” consist of five layers – compressed watermelon with dashi, watermelon, and siamese lime jelly topped with tuna floss and ikura. This small bite appetizer reminded me of a beloved Thai summer dish I first tasted at PasteWatermelon, ground salmon with fried shallot & roasted galangal powder.

Shrimp, Gourd, Chilli is a Thai-style Prawn Ceviche (“Goong Chae Nam Pla”). Fresh prawn served with a spicy, sour, salty sauce and bitter gourd candied with palm sugar.

Abalone, Potatoes, Aromatic Herbs hot and sour soup made with 3 types of different coloured potatoes.

  • Main Act

Main dishes were served in Thai communal dining style (samrub-style) starting with a Shrimp Paste Relish, Peanut Relish, Seasonal Vegetables mixed at tableside by Chef Nongnuch  “Nuch” Sae-eiw.

Thereafter it was a flurry of activities and in a blink of an eye, our table was filled with an array of dishes. We were reminded to start with the Hokkaido Scallop, Crab Roe, Shrimp Head which need to be savoured while it was still warm.

Thai curries, are a fundamental component that holds great significance in Thai culinary tradition. They are available in a wide range of flavors and heat levels. Here we were presented with two types of curries. One of which was Pork Collar, La Vang Curry, Lemongrass “Gaeng Ra-Waeng” – curry with turmeric, lemongrass. It is a yellow curry which was mildly spicy.

The other curry was Lahnyai’s signature Dry-Aged Duck, Nang-Roy Curry, Pepper which is 14-days dry aged duck roasted whole with different spices and plated with “Geang Nang Loi” – a coconut curry served with stuffed green bell peppers. I personally liked this curry with bold flavours and vibrant colour.

Nusara’s Signature “Waygu Beef Pad Krapao” Holy basil gives this stir-fry its signature flavor. Pad Krapao is such a frequently eaten staple dish that there are calls that this is the real national dish of Thailand (instead of Pad Thai). However instead of using ground meat here at the restaurant it was replaced with high quality sliced wagyu beef which were really tender.

Later the evening Chef “Ton” was seen checking in on his kitchen crew and also came by the dining hall to interact with the diners.

  • Pre-dessert

After a rich and hearty Main Act, we were presented with a refreshing tropical themed palate cleanser of Wild Betel Leaf, Pineapple, Honey.

  • Happy Ending

Coconut Caramel, Sesame, Fresh Young Coconut Thai steamed flower dumpling doused in coconut milk and topped with freshly shaved truffles. It might sound unusual to use black truffle in dessert, but turned out well.

On the side was Pa ka krong – Thai flower dessert and a sticky rice dessert (looked like tamales) with sweet corn custard.

Fruits platter of dragon fruit, guava and green mango (I think), with Thai fruit dipping sauce.

Wine pairing:

  • Rimarts Cava Reserva Especial Chardonnay
  • 2013 Felton Road Chardonnay Elms
  • 2017 Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir
  • 2015 Ridge Geyserville Alexander Valley Zinfandel
  • 2015 Niepoort Late Bottled Vintage Port – loved this port that has dark chocolate taste! 

We also heard from Sommelier “Tam” that since Thai cuisines are typically rich in flavours and spice, it would be appropriate to pair a light-bodied red low in tannins when having the main act that featured dishes of meat with curries.

Whether to try traditional Thai cuisine or contemporary Thai fusion food in Bangkok depends on personal preference. For travellers who are new to Thai cuisine, starting with eateries or restaurants offering traditional dishes can be a good way to understand the foundations and basics of Thai flavours.

Lahnyai Nusara, on the other hand, features dishes that blend traditional Thai recipes with international influences. It offers a fresh take on Thai cuisine, presenting unexpected flavour combination.

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★ 80/20, Bangkok

After 3.5 years break from my last visit to Bangkok, we were eager to satisfy our Thai food cravings. Tried our luck in getting a table at Sorn but was an agonizingly frustrating process. So 80/20 was our next choice with reservation available conveniently via Chope. I was drawn to their menu that features modern Thai cuisines. Later then I realised that Chef Andrew Martin had worked at Nahm, Bo.Lan, Issaya Siamese Club etc. He was in fact Chef de cuisine at 80/20 from 2016-2018.

Before we start our meal, the restaurant enquired on our tolerance level for spicy food. We gamely took on the challenge to try their standard/normal level. Also opted for the wine pairing which started with Champagne Lombard, Extra Brut Premier Cru.

Khanom Buang Thai crepe, banana prawn, ivory mango is an interesting variation of the commonly seen street snack of Thai Crispy Pancake. The prawn and mango combination makes it a great starter, complimented by the aromatic fried shallots and crunchy thin crepe.

From one tropical fruit to another, next was the beautifully prepared Seasonal Fruit Lychee, prawn, peanut. With the seed removed and replaced with prawn filling, we were told to pop the succulent fruit in 1 bite (without the skin) into our mouth. Upon biting, the burst of sweet and aromatic floral notes instantly hit our palate.

Last snack were Moo Hom Mangda Grilled pork, rose apple, mangda and Jungle “Juice” Wild herbs, wild fruit, wild tea. The grilled pork checked all the boxes of having a crackling skin with a fat layer underneath. The greasiness was balanced with the punchy mangda (chilli paste), pickled gooseberries and crunchy rose apple. The slightly tart juice served as a palate cleanser before we progress into the actual course proper starting with several appetizers.

Headlining the appetizer course was a signature dish of Stormy Sea Squid, mangosteen, chili, said to be inspired by Chef’s squid-fishing trip in the south of Thailand and featured the national fruit – Mangosteen aka the ‘Queen of Fruits’. The broth itself has a complex amalgamation of flavours, with tartness, savoury, sweetness and spiciness. Paired with Blue Sand, Sauvignon Blanc,

Most people might be familiar with Tom Yum but we were introduced to a lesser known specialty amongst foreigners. Geang Som Talay Sour curry, pineapple, seaweed is a Southern Thai sour curry. The version here was prepared with monkfish (not sure) and was an inviting dish with bold flavours. While Tom Yam is known for its spicy and tangy profile, Gaeng Som lean more towards a tangy and mildly sour taste.

We continued with the harvests from the ocean with Goong Pao Yang Fire roasted prawn, grilled tomato ‘nam jim’. Smoky umami flavour from the prawn was accentuated by the sweetness of the grilled tomato dipping sauce. Paired with Jean-Marc BrocardPetit Chablis.

The last appetizer was a dish paying tribute to Yim Yim Restaurant (a legendary 120-year-old Teochew restaurant in Chinatown), Named Ped Yim Yim Duck, chestnut, pork (Smile Smile Duck) it looks like a re-constructed Chinese dish which we probably know as “Eight Treasure Duck”. Subtle differences in terms of execution can be noted such as the use of dry-aged duck instead of being braised. Paired with Valserrano, Rioja Crianza.

Another palate refresher was served and this time round its the Lao Khao Rice wine. A toasted rice sorbet sitting on a bed of sliced grapes soaked in Thai rice whiskey.

For the main course, it was served in Thai communal dining style. Paired with Andrew Peace Masterpeace, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gap Khao which means “with rice” is a set of dishes served all at once (from top left to right):

  • Black pepper asparagus, egg, sweet sausage
  • Reef cod, crab relish, local herbs
  • Grilled flank steak, border nam prik, pork skin
  • Geang (curry), yum, jackfruit
  • Clay pot tumeric rice

Amongst the array of dishes, the hearty red curry was definitely the highlight. Though it might be a tad spicy for some people. The portioning of the dishes were well-measured, we could finish them (except for the rice).

Before progressing to desserts, we were presented with yet another palate cleaner Southern Drink Som kaek (garcinia) & honey. The sweet-sour drink probably served as a great digestive aid after a rich and heavy meal.

Despite having finished serving the main dishes for all the tables, we still saw Chef Andrew Martin in the kitchen working together with the rest of his crew to prepare the desserts. At one point, we saw Chef athletically dashed out to hand over a scarf left behind by a guest. It was amazing to see Chef being so full of energy after a long day in the kitchen. He told us that he typically starts his day early to visit the markets to source for ingredients, he even made time to clock a run before starting his day in the kitchen.

Last two desserts to round up our meal was paired with Massolino, Moscato d’Asti. Khanom Chocolate Yang Chocolate, wild berries, black sesame was a delightful treat. Perhaps our palates were looking forward to something soothing to nurse our now “fiery” stomach filled with the spicy dishes.

Interestingly the chocolate dessert seemed to have “reset” our palates. Although at first glance, the 2nd dessert of Suan Maprow Coconut, guava, honey looked plain, we were able to appreciate its delicate flavours. I was not a guava lover but was blown away by how good it tastes here! The guava complemented by the nutty, creamy coconut flavours along with a hint of sweet honey. This pleasant experience gave me confidence to try guava juice for breakfast at my hotel the next morning!

Being a half-Japanese, Chef’s drew inspiration from his grandmother to present us with Petit Fours White & gold. Starting with a banana coconut mochi which was lightly grilled on the outer surface and finishing with a refreshing sorbet adorned with bits of gold foil.

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★ Odette

Technically speaking this is the first time I’m having a full course meal by Chef Julien at Odette. My first encounter with Chef Julien‘s cooking was when he was still helming the space at Level 70 of the hotel in City Hall (JAAN, 2013). Subsequently we visited Odette at their current premise when there was a four-hands dinner with Chef Takazawa (Takazawa x Odette). On this current visit, there was a sense of familiarity and also excitement to try newly created dishes.

On both occasions where we dined at the current Odette premise, we were seated not at the main hall but the side section which does not have a view of the kitchen. I’m not sure if it’s because most of the tables for 2 pax were situated away from the main section; or perhaps it’s crucial to make reservation in advanced and indicate the seating preference for them to try to accommodate to the requests. If you prefer cosy corner, the side room would offer more privacy away from the bustling hall which is comparatively more open. My key gripe was again the rather dim lighting at the restaurant. I had the same sentiment when I last dined here too. It felt worse this time as I had to squint my eyes to read the relatively small fonts on the printed set menu. Guess part of the reason was I’m getting on age and starting to develop presbyopia….some of the photos didn’t turned out well (which was kinda disappointing to look at while I was writing this post).

Amuse-bouche of onion tart, 36-months aged cheese, saba taco. Really enjoyed this trio of snacks filled with richness, creaminess and complimented with the crispy crusts~

More snacks served – Mushroom tea and Truffle brioche. This snack was a play of earthy flavour with the alluring umami of truffle~

Ended the snacks tasting with a decadent uni toast – which was one of the signature. Thereafter bread selection was served alongside butter with parsley and garlic.

The formal course began with Asperges Blanches De Mazan Hokkaido uni, Granny smith, Kristal caviarsus. Jaw-dropping combination of all my favourite delicacies. I swear the picture doesn’t do justice to this dish (and the other dishes too…).

The next dish was light and refreshing Normandy Brown Crab Avocado, Nashi pear, Coriander. The sweetness of the delicate crustacean meat left a lasting impression on my palate.

For the 3rd course, we opted to switch one of our set course item to a supplement dish. The standard dish was a signature of the restaurant which we had tasted before – Rosemary Smoked Organic Egg Smoked potato syphon, Chorizo Iberico, Meuniere.

Therefore we switched one dish to the Raviole De Langoustine Shiso, Black Truffle, Bisque which requires a top-up of $108. Yes…$108. If you order this as an additional course it will cost $128. But was it worth it? My answer is a resounding Yes. The entire experience began when the service staff place the plate of raviole in front of me. I could smell the alluring aroma of the umami-packed bisque. Next comes the grating of the black truffle where whiffs of the musky and oaky smell wafts towards you. All these builds up the anticipation before you scoop up the bisque and take your first sip of it. After the initial wave of euphoria, you then take a bite of the al-dente raviole and wait to be amazed by the second wave of wonder. Needless to say we slurped up every drop of the luscious bisque.

With our minds still reeling in from the stunning raviole, we were presented with a bowl of clear-looking soup. This is Bouillon ‘Paysan’ Foie Gras, Abalone, Shiitake – a signature dish inspired by Singapore‘s Bak Kut Teh. What took me by surprise was this is first time (I think) I tasted poached foie gras as typically foie gras are pan seared. The warm savoury yuzu-infused pork broth somehow helps to refresh the palate while elevating the flavours of the creamy melt-in-your-mouth foie gras; and the chargrilled chewy abalone. There was an amalgation of complex flavours in this “plain-looking” dish. Yet another stunning course~

Compared to the two extraordinary dishes earlier, the Basque Country Monkfish Stuffed morel, Swiss chard, Vin jaune may seem less spectacular. But this dish also featured exquisite ingredients such as the prized morel and the “yellow wine”.

Before the next main course, we were given a sneak preview: pigeon roasted on the crown and smoked with rosemary & thyme, which would be portioned out for us later.

Here’s the plated Kampot Pepper Crusted Pigeon Beetroot, Black garlic, Confit leg. After finishing the meat using fork and knife, guests were advised to pick up the “leg” to finish off the final bit of flesh. Thereafter we could unwrap the roll of white paper around the bone to uncover some hidden messages. We guessed that it could be the the origin or “serial number” of the pigeon…haha. Turns out we were half-right. There were fun facts printed on each piece.

  • “We source our pigeons specially from Monsieur Fabien Deneour in PlounéourMénez Finistère, Brittany.”
  • “The crust uses amazing Kampot peppers from Norbet Binot of Kampot Jewels.”

Palate cleanser of apple matcha

Calamansi & Thai Basil Tart Sable Breton, Yuzu, Coconut

Drinks Pairing

Sadie Family, Swartland, Palladius 2017

Pazo Senorans, Albarino Seleccion de Anada 2011

Domaine de Montbourgeau, Jura, L’Etoile 2017 and Cls Cibonne, Provence, Marius 2017 (for Egg & Raviole respectively)

Peyre Rose, Languedoc, ‘Oro’ 2006

Koehler-Ruprecht, Kallstadter Saumagen Auslese Trocken 2015

Herve Bizeul, Roussillon, Le Clos des Fees 2007

Ca’ d’Gal Vite VecchiaMoscato dAsti DOCG, Italy 2015

Douceurs – Lychee elder flower ice popsicle

Fuji apple, musk melon kumquat and Vanilla from Madagascar canele and Tongka tart

We were gifted with a bottle of jam as souvenir. The jam was seriously good and amazing!

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★ Zén

Zén took over the white house on Bukit Pasoh Rd after Chef Andre closed his then 2-Michelin starred restaurant and relocated out of Singapore. For me it has been a decade since I last dined inside this building – I recently dropped by Zen to grab their covid period takeout waffles a few months ago~

Back in 2019, we missed the chance to visit Chef Björn Frantzén‘s Michelin-starred eponymous restaurant in Stockholm, we even took a photo of the restaurant door when we happened to pass by it. We said to ourselves – we could still try their outpost helmed by Executive Chef Tristin Farmer back in Singapore. Instead we visited The Flying Elk – then still operating under the Frantzén Group but was subsequently sold in August 2019.

Two+ years later, we were certainly excited to try out Frantzen‘s first Asia outpost (opened in 2018), hoping to relieve the unique flavours we enjoyed in fine dining restaurants in Scandinavia region.

Once you enter the “house”, guests would be lounging in the foyer area to enjoy snacks, canapes and pre-dinner drinks. Here we were presented with Blini Aburi Chutoro & N25 caviar, ‘Råraka’ Kalix Löjrom and Croustade Lobster, artichoke & sancho pepper. Each of them deserves a special mention for their exquisiteness.

For the caviar connoisseur, the N25 which also originates in high-altitude farms in Yunnan, China (on the 25° north latitude) and aged in Germany is known for its unique nutty & floral aroma, packed with reminiscence of ocean umami. The buttery and rich caviar was well paired with the fatty chutoro.

Not wanting to let the caviar take centre stage, the next snack featured the Kalix löjrom (“Caviar of Kalix”) which is the king of Swedish caviars. Rårakor (or Råraka) is a classic Swedish dish similar to Swiss Rösti but the Swedish often eat the potato cakes with caviar roes – served on a plate. The version at Zén had the finely shaved potatoes delicately rolled up and plated into a pretty bite sized snack. What a wonderful feast both for our visual and palate sensors~

Last snack of croustade had crispy light crust, with chewy lobster meat topped with a tinge of citrusy peppery taste. I was absolutely stoked by the trio of snacks! So looking forward to the rest of the evening~

After finishing the snacks, we were invited to the kitchen counter and introduced to the fresh ingredients displayed. This would be a sneak preview of what would be served later. It certainly whetted my appetite.

During which, while listening to the staff’s briefing, we were presented with Gunkan Chevreuil & elderberry and Kombu beignet truffle, nutmeg. The former, had cheveuil aged in beeswax and served as tartare, grilled unagi, topped with apple pearls. On the right was the decadent foie gras parfait filled doughnut, which was also sold as a takeaway during the covid lockdown – but I didn’t managed to try it till now.

After finishing our snacks, we went up a short flight of stairs to the main dining room for the proper dishes. The lighting was a tad too dark for photo taking as the main light source was a candle on our table. So pardon the poor image quality

We started with a refreshing Crudo: Aged shima aji, heirloom tomato, arabica coffee, ikura, bergamot. This was pretty typical of what we anticipated from Scandinavian cooking. Aging the firm and fatty shima aji supposedly brings out a better flavour profile.  

From one classic cold appetizer, we moved on to another classic dish. However this took me by surprise as it was a Chawanmushi tokubushi (baby abalone), cauliflower & hojicha dashi, horseradish, Bafun Uni – an elegant dish which was warm and comforting. The custard was made using Hokkaido milk infused with katsuobushi. The tokobushi was braised in ginger dashi and grilled over binchotan. I almost thought that I was in a Japanese restaurant.  

Scallop garum, dehydrated roe, pumpkin hot sauce, finger lime, spruce. Garum is a relatively new condiment to me but it’s presence was increasingly felt in fine-dining restaurants. This fermented fish sauce had its origins back to Roman times and its recent revival was attributed to one of the World’s most influential restaurant – Noma. The garum used here is made from the skirt of the scallop – making full use of the ingredient to minimise food wastage. Garum is said to be able to amplify the natural flavor of the meat, which in this case was the hand-dived scallop from Scotland. The other interesting ingredient was the finger lime. Finger limes are a citrus fruit native to Australia – I last heard of it when dining in Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Sydney. However I saw the ingredient in its original form for the first time here at Zen as the staff plated this dish at the tableside (as well as at the ingredients box presentation earlier). When cut opened, the core comprises of tiny caviar-like spheres (like tobiko), the colour depends on the varieties yellowish-green to pink. This dish had an amalgamation of flavours and textures all packed within each bite.

If one had been to the Scandinavian region, you would probably realised that they are obsessed with Liquorice! It’s everywhere in the Nordics! This velouté of Onion, almond & liquorice is a Frantzén signature which was on the menu at the OG restaurant since 2008. I personally felt that liquorice has an acquired taste…I certainly didn’t like liquorice candy…hence I was initially apprehensive about having this. However I found this soup very palatable, as the liquorice was really subtle. They used Raw organic liquorice from liquorice roots from Lakrids by Bulow. In fact after you drink the soup, the flavours slowly unravels on your palate layer by layer – from the initial sweetness of the onion, to the nuttiness of almond and finishing with earthy undertones of the liquorice.

Having spotted the bottled of 2012 Arbois Vin Jaune during the ingredients showcase and was looking forward to the dish that would be prepared using it. This yellow wine is known as King of the Wines and must be aged a minimum of six years. I last had a fish dish prepared with Vin Jaune at the Orient Express Restaurant pop-up and was pretty impressed by it. Excited to taste it this time served as Monkfish white truffle, Vin Jaune, sprouted walnut.

The second protein dish was Aged duck quince & pine nut ‘polenta’, shiitake, foie gras, sauce vierge. The Challandais duck was aged in-house for 4 weeks, glazed with orange blossom honey, Ceylon cinnamon & fennel seed; then grilled and slowly baked. Served with the sauce vierge which is a French sauce made from olive oil, lemon juice, chopped tomato and chopped basil.

To round up the main course, we were presented with a variation of Frantzén‘s iconic French Toast. Instead of freshly grated truffles sitting on top, it was replaced with a double marinated Black Angus bresaola. French toast double marinated beef, unagi, foie gras, parsley & Japanese mustard emulsion.

During covid lockdown when the restaurant could not open for dine-in, they sold “limited period” waffle sandwiches for takeaway at $20 a piece. I managed to taste them on the very last (or 2nd last day) of them selling it. The heart-shaped Swedish waffles which were thin and crispy were fabulous! So I was eager to try it again, this time round not in sandwich style.

For the dine-in version, we had the Tea, milk & honey yuba, pumpkin seed, lavender honey, banana & jasmine waffle. The tea is jasmine pearl tea named because the tea leaves are rolled into pearl shape and infused with the aroma of jasmine flowers. Similarly for the honey they did not use any ordinary honey but a mikan honey from Kyoto.

After finishing the ice cream and waffle, we moved up to the top floor of the restaurant “Living Room” for the finale.

Here we were presented with an array of snacks along with fresh fruits from Japan.

(first row from top) Mont blanc rum & raisin, foie gras & white truffle, Sable Breton Blueberry, pepper meringue & brown cheese.

(second row) Chocolate liquorice, 100 years old balsamic vinegar added to chewy beetroot with artic raspberry, Macaron Hoshigaki & mikan, Fudge Black garlic & liquorice, Jello Yuzu, fennel & batak pepper.

(picture on right) Cucumber & shiso sorbet, spruce jelly, blackcurrent leaf oil, hanaho and Muskmelon & Manzanilla, Wakayama Gaki (persimmon) & chamomile, Amaou Strawberry & pinecone

The 3-hour long dinner had well-portioned dishes (note: for a female eater) and was well-paced. I managed to finish everything. We had a drinks pairing and a non-alcoholic pairing, if you are interested in the details of the drinks here it is:

Drinks Pairing

Apple Eric Bordelet, Sydre Argellette 2017 Normandy

Tamasakae Schichi Hon Yari Kokoku 2018 Shiga

Gruner Veltliner Nikolaihof Im Wingebirge Baumpresse 2013 Wachau

Kitanishiki Tamagawa & Zen Time Machine 88 Kyoto

Chardonnay Jobard-Morey Meursault 1er Cru 2018 Beaune

Pinot Meunier Roger Coulon Coteaux Champenois 2018 Champagne

Merlot Radikon Merlot 2006 Fruili-Venizia-Guilia

Moscato Di Asti Ca’dGal Vite Vecchia 2014 Piemonte

Non-Alcoholic Pairing

Koji Rice Kamairi Heirloom Tomato Muskmelon

Toasted Red Rice Toasted Red Rice Buckwheat-Orange caramel Tamarind

Kombucha French Rose Da Hong Pao Oolong Dian Hong Black

Raisin Mushroom Tea Brown Butter

Barley Roasted Cauliflower Chiku Hoshigaki

Raspberry & Tomato Redcurrant Omija-cha Kinome

Carrot Purple Carrot Smoked maple syrup

Coconut Rhubarb Banana Elderflower

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☆ Gaggan Anand at Mandala Club (Pop-up in Singapore)

Covid restrictions had curtailed most leisure travellers’ holiday plans. Over the past 2 years, we only dined out on rare occasions as we tried to mitigate the risk of contracting Covid. Following my last visit to Mandala Club for the Mirazur pop-up in June a few months ago, I’m back at the same venue! Albeit this time round the place had been re-decorated and ready to host Chef Gaggan for at least half a year’s residency (which got extended to 8-months eventually).

The key difference between the Mirazur pop-up and Gaggan pop-up was that we did not eat at the former’s original home restaurant in France before. Whereas we had dined at Gaggan’s restaurant in Bangkok on 2 occasions (2015 & 2018). Therefore there was a tendency for me to draw comparison between the latest menu with our past experiences. Naturally there were also a certain level of expectations in terms of wanting to taste his signature dishes (dubbed as the “Greatest Hits”) again versus new creations that the Chef would be conjuring up.

I must say Chef prepped the guests well as we passed by this lighted display (above) while walking to our table!

Although Chef continued to adopt his emoji-style menu, he added a new twist to the game. Instead of presenting guests with a printed emoji menu, we were given a “Passport” along with a set of stamps on the table. Guests were encouraged to use our creativity to design the blank pages within the passport by documenting what we felt were the dishes served. So many a times the staff would only explain what the dish was after we finished it.

First up was the signature Yoghurt Explosion, we instinctively knew the emoji that represented this was the 💥. Instead of serving it on a spoon, this upgraded version was served on a green chutney crisp, adorned with more embellishments (including citrusy lemon, spicy chilli, a tint of coriander). You can feel the amalgation of flavours once you stuffed this into your mouth. Thereafter wait for the usual popping candy sensation. It literally felt that there’s a party in my mouth~

Up next was something that looked gory…. but fret not…this was not the real brain of any animal, just made to look like one. We could easily identify the corresponding stamp to use 🧠

The dish fit for Halloween party was introduced to us as Chlorophyll (brioche) and (brain) foie gras ice cream.

The 3rd dish required guests to point their middle finger 🖕 to receive the cone-shaped receptacle used to hold the ring shaped snack. Ingredients used include coriander, white chocolate and chilli.  We were advised to eat it quickly before it melts and in one mouth – which was a bit of challenge for ladies due to its size

After tasting two new dishes, a familiar looking dish made its appearance. The black charcoal ball was something that we ate before at his restaurant, however they always change up the filling inside so it requires a bit of guesswork to get this right. And the answer was Chicken Tikka Masala with butter tomato. Initially I couldn’t find an emoji that could represent this dish well…there’s no Dark Moon 🌑 stamp though… But I recalled that during our previous visit, we were told the black exterior is made from the skin of the eggplant 🍆.

Moving on was another dish which had the “same same but different” feel. The same Ghewar (crispy deep fried tart) was served with a different topping – truffle mushroom 🍄. 

Up next was something which looked like a “cigar”. It was made with Thosai (or dosa), 🌴coconut meat, sichuan pepper, abalone served with Peking duck hoisin sauce. I reckoned you get the concept, its a Indian+Chinese fusion creation. 

Well, we were told that this next dish was actually inspired by a character in Star Wars. Any guess? From the claws you might have guessed that it’s a kind of bird? Then you are right – it’s a tribute to Porg. This “drumstick” 🦴 was made from minced duck meat. 

Sweet potato leaf, shiroi raw shrimp🦐, coconut meat

Chef is known to love Japan and you can trust that he knows his fishes well. The next dish was 🐟 Rosy sea bass (akamutsu aka black throat seaperch), pandan, coconut and ikura. A perfectly executed dish that ticked all the right boxes in terms textures and flavours, and what stood out for me was that it was created with a fusion touch. 

Nothing goes to waste as Chef used the Fish bones to concoct a soup broth with addition of tamarind, tomatoes and herbs. 

If there is a Best Food Presentation Award, it would go to this next dish – 🦆 Duck, pop rice, curry leaves. I loved how they plated the duck dish on a slate that resembles the terrace rice fields (like those in Bali). I hope I’m not overthinking but this seeks to reflect the agroecology of growing ducks and rice together in irrigated paddy fields? 

❄️ Frozen cheese dome with seafood, uni, squid – wished the dome has prints of Death Star as it would make it look cooler than it already was

A rice dish towards the end of the meal but this was the best dish of the night! White corn, peas, 🦀 crab curry, pandan. It looked deceptively plain and simple, but the curry was fabulous! I had to apportion the curry with the right amount of rice in each mouthful to avoid finishing the curry too quickly. 

🍂 Autumn passion fruit, sake kasu (sake lees) ice cream

☕ Tiramisu coffee

There were both wine and juice pairing options available, we opted for one pairing each. Here’s the juices served: Apple fennel and ginger bulb, Dragon fruit and tongka, Pear juice with cardamom.

Beetroot hibiscus and Osmanthus kombucha with nectar honey.

For the wine pairing, there was a good variety. We started with Marie Courtin Résonance Pinot Noir Extra Brut (aperitif), Piquentum Teran Istria (Croatia wine), Envinate Paolo Blanco Vinos Atlanticos (Spain wine), La Ferme des Sept Lunes Saint Joseph Syrah wine, Sebastien Riffault Skeveldra, Loire Valley Sancerre wine and Meinklang Graupert Zweigelt Burgenland (Austrian wine).

My personalised emoji menu completed.

Recap of our visits to the restaurant and looking forward to visiting them again when they re-open in Bangkok.

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ESORA (Revisit Mar 2021)

Back at ESORA again after dining here just 2 months ago for their Winter menu (post). This time round its for their Spring menu and I managed to book my preferred 8pm seating. However guests from the earlier seating had not finish their meal and there was a slight wait for our seats to be ready. 

When we finally got to be seated, I could immediately notice the difference in ambience between the 5.30pm seating versus 8pm seating. The 8pm seating was much more popular and therefore the large tables were all filled up, making the entire hall much “livelier” from the guests’ chattering.

Unfortunately I prefer to have a quieter dining experience – which also explains why I’m pretty happy to live with the dining restrictions of 2 pax. 

Perhaps because we started our dinner behind time, the pace of the meal seems faster than the 5.30pm session. We were served the warm Dashi kombu with yuzu and promptly moved onto the Foie Gras Monaka strawberry, sakura.  Befitting of the Spring theme menu, the basket was lined with tiny pink flowers which looked so charming. The filling had a tinge of tartness compared to the Winter apple version which was sweeter.  

Fava beans aka broad beans, are one of the earliest vegetables ready to harvest in Spring. The versatile legume was the key ingredient for our next course of Fava Bean Two Way botan ebi, caviar. Sitting on a bed of fresh fava bean is a crisp tempura mixture comprising of sakura ebi, botan ebi and fava bean. 

The 2nd fava bean dish was served with creamy botan ebi and caviar stuffing in its pod. 

The pod placed on the tray of green/white rice grain was like an artwork. I felt a sense of Zen while admiring this dish as it resembles a miniature rock garden landscape. 

ESORA Spring Hassun seasonal delicacies was presented on a tray of beautifully arranged landscape garden. 

Close-up shots of Clam with mountain vegetable (left), Saba sushi roll and Baby eels in a tub-shaped vessel. The well grilled Saba was my favourite amongst this trio. Wish I could have one more of the sushi roll.

Here we have the Spring roll with clam and kailan puree, Tuna with mountain yam, Pregnant squid with its roe.

Madai Soup onion, yuzu a clear and light soup which was refreshing. 

Grilled Tachiuo shio konbu salad – Tachiuo means “great sword fish” and it’s obvious how it got the name if you googled how the fish looks like. I first tried cutlassfish as nigiri at Sushi Dai, Tokyo. Back then the Chef had to repeat the name of this fish a few times to guests as it seems like this is not a commonly eaten fish. So when they mentioned cutlassfish to me here, I knew exactly what I’m having without the need for much introduction.  The grilled fish, served with chives at the side, has a delicate and fine meat texture. 

Next was the meat dish and the original dish was BBQ Pigeon spring cabbage, shichimi. But being beef lovers, we opted for the supplement dish of Omi Wagyu Beef which was served with spring cabbage, sancho pepper, vinegar, red wine reduction. The leaves of the spring cabbage are said to be greener, looser and softer. 

Hokkigai Clam Donabe mibuna, uni Compared to the previous donabe I had in the Winter menu, this donabe was comparatively more moist, the grains more sticky. But the addition of hokkidai clam added a nice chewy texture and the most interesting flavour was the mustardy Japanese leaf. 

Setoka Orange ginger foam Refreshing burst of flavours when you put this in your mouth, great as a palate cleanser and apt that ginger is known for its gastrointestinal relief properties! 

Apple Flower apple sorbet, darjeeling espuma Decorated with meticulously arranged marigold flower petals on the top, the sorbet hidden inside the hollowed out apples tasted like I’ve having a cup of freshly brewed fragrant apple tea. 

Finished our meal with a kinkan fruit tea. I recognised the kinkan fruit because I bought them earlier this year from Donki store. These petite kumquat which is the size of an olive, can be eaten as a whole without having to peel the skin. 

[Updates on 1st Sep 2021]: Excited that ESORA got their first Michelin Star in the 2021 MICHELIN Guide Singapore!

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ESORA

Time flies and we had been stuck in Singapore without an overseas holiday for close to 1 year due to Covid-19. Not only were we restricted from travelling abroad, we were strongly reminded to limit social interactions. For me, it also meant reducing non-essential dining out to minimise the risk of exposure. Decided to welcome 2021 with a nice meal at ESORA – a Japanese kappo-style restaurant, key reason being Japan was the last country we visited prior to Covid-19 outbreak. 

I could not believe my consecutive misfortune with dining reservations. After resolving issues with changing dining date for the Orient Express Pop-up on 26 Dec 20, my luck did not change for the better in 2021. About one month after successfully making my reservation, ESORA restaurant informed me that my 8pm reservation had to be brought forward to 5.30pm due to double booking in their system. Being someone who tends to have late dinner, 5.30pm was certainly a tad too early for me. Nonetheless I was pleasantly surprised by the skylight fixture right above the counter when we step into the restaurant in the early evening~ 

The rest of the dining hall was decked out in warm wood tones. All guests of the 5.30pm session were seated at the counter with ample safe distancing between each groups. Once seated we were served warm Dashi kombu with yuzu. 

Next was Chef’s signature Foie Gras Monaka where the filling is changed seasonally. For Winter menu the filling was apple, myoga topped with oxalis and edible flowers. The trend of serving savoury monaka has certainly caught on in many Japanese establishments over the years. This one is the prettiest I’ve seen so far.  So lovely that I couldn’t bear to sandwich the beautifully placed fillings! 

The main festive celebration in Winter would definitely be Christmas! Up next is Christmas Chicken winter black truffle. Sharing a fun fact: In Japan, KFC have been synonymous with Christmas. So I do appreciate Chef serving up this dish! 

The wing was stuffed with sticky rice and topped with freshly shaved truffles. Wish I could have one more of this! 

After being wowed by the impressive presentations of the first two dishes, we were eagerly waiting for the next masterpiece to be served with Chef busy plating them on the kitchen island. 

ESORA Winter Hassun seasonal delicacies was a spread of ocean gems! This course was a 10/10 as I was impressed with all 6 of the small bites presented.

Can you spot the Karasumi sandwiched between two snowflakes? Really kawaii~

Close-up: Black Seaperch, King Crab with avocado and Bafun Uni Pumpkin

More close-up: Ika with caviar and Fugu with yuzu sauceEvery small bite was prepared to elevate the delicate taste of fresh fish or seafood.

Monkfish Soup burdock, kuroshichimi Its a soup made from sake lees, miso, kimo (liver), chive oil and carrot. I think this is the first time I tasted sake lees soup and really love this. The soup had rich umami flavours yet well-balanced with the sweetness from the vegetable. 

Guriru Kinmedai chinese cabbage, kujo negi The nicely grilled white flesh fish was served with cabbage roasted for 6 hours and leek sauce.

Omi Wagyu turnip, lotus root red miso, hobo leaf. This dish certainly brought back memories of my last trip to Japan and red miso beef is a local dish in Hida region of Gifu prefecture!

The final main course is the Donabe dish. The Donabe (claypot) is known as the Japanese One-Pot Wonder for its versatility as a cookware. Cooking rice in donabe makes it fuller and tastier because the heat is transmitted more slowly. 

Here we were presented with Kegani Crab Donabe negi, ginger.

Most of the flavours of the rice came from the dashi used and the stock used was really flavoursome. The horsehair crab meat was sweet and had a fine texture. 

Perhaps due to my experience of visits to Japan during Winter season, the menu certainly resonated with me. From the ocean based ingredients to the warm hearty flavours. The pre-dessert was a whimsical dish of Snowman vanilla, strawberryThe snowman was showered with abundance of powdery white snow which is synonymous with Hokkaido‘s ski mountains. 

Dessert was an innovative one though I could draw some similarities with the dessert I had at La Cime featuring oranges.

Here we have Orange Two Ways souffle, black tea ice cream. So there was a warm dessert soufflé and a cold dessert ice cream. The former was creamy and fluffy, while the latter was tangy with an earthy tea aroma.  

Finished our meal with a strawberry fruit tea. Although its the end of a stupendous meal, it was time to plan for the reservation for Spring menu in 2 weeks’ time! Keeping my fingers crossed that I could snag a seat in March 21~ 

Left the restaurant with castella cakes to bring home. 

[Updates on 1st Sep 2021]: Excited that ESORA got their first Michelin Star in the 2021 MICHELIN Guide Singapore!

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La Maison de la Nature Goh, Fukuoka

We marked our last night in Fukuoka with a dinner at La Maison de la Nature Goh. At the time of our visit (in May 2019), the plan of closing this place to open a joint collaboration restaurant with Chef Gaggan Anand was still the talk of the town. Unpredictably about 6 months later, it was unveiled that the plan had since been shelved due to a sensational turn of events widely-publicized in the foodie scene.

As with a few other fine dining restaurants we’ve been to in Japan, this place is nestled in a quiet alley with a nondescript signage. Once we stepped inside the restaurant, I was surprised that the dining hall was pretty compact and the ambience was pretty casual – a stark contrast to stereotypical formal french dining setting.

The restaurant offer a omakase fixed menu comprising 6 courses – 3 Appetizers, 2 Mains and 1 Dessert.

Teriyaki eel, Vegetable terrine layered with coriander & celery and Ice cream gazpacho made with green tomato, coriander & celery. This appetizer was interesting to me as most Japanese broiled eel are served warm with rice. Instead this is paired with cold gazpacho along with the refreshing taste of the vegetable.

Up next was a quartet of small bites (from bottom left anti-clockwise):

  • Quiche made with Japanese mushroom and bacon and green beans
  • Flounder sashimi encased in green tea chips with green tea sauce
  • Wasabi cookie to be eaten in 1 bite – I think most diners who had visited Gaggan would agree this might be inspired by Chef’s good friend =)
  • Japanese leek

We round up the appetizer courses with a light and slightly minty Green pea cold soup consomme jelly with fried squid, topped with kinome leaves (a kind of Japanese spice).

Mains started with Lobster with chicken & shrimp broth with five spice powder Notably the use of five spice powder and coriander topping is pretty novel. Although I have the five spice powder condiment at home, I only use it to cook braised pork belly.  Chef has added an Asian twist to this lobster dish.

Kagoshima beef black vinegar sauce with black pepper, onion cooked for 2 hours with celeriac puree The sweetness from the onion was the highlight to complement the tender beef.

Before progressing to the desserts, sous chef Andy prepared a citrus-based palate cleanser.

Followed by Miso Creme Brulée with salted caramel, Amao strawberries, chocolate ice cream, and soy sauce powder.

Gohdiva sake ice cream, sake jelly.  I sensed the funny side of Chef Fukuyama with this tongue-in-cheek lacquer box design. It reminded me of the Starbucks cup by Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa at Den.

P.S The restaurant was awarded one star in the Michelin Guide Fukuoka-Saga-Nagasaki 2019 Special Edition Winking Face on Apple iOS 13.3

Photos Taken Earlier:

Since we were on Kyushu Island, we took a 2-hour long Shinkansen ride from Hakata to Kagoshima to see one of Japan‘s most active volcanoes – Sakurajima.

Bought another ekiben to eat onboard our train ride – Mentaiko Gyu Don. The marinated cod roe is a specialty of Kyushu and originates from Fukuoka and it goes very well with even plain riceball (onigiri).

When we step outside Kagoshima station, I was excited to see a huge plume of smoke in the air. However by the time we reached the vantage point, the Sakurajima volcano was quiet…

As it is widely known that the volcano smokes regularly, supposedly takes place multiple times per day, we waited…and waited…for this moment! It’s amazing that the volcano is just a short ferry ride away (4km) from Kagoshima city and is open for visitors. Being a risk averse traveller, I was satisfied with witnessing an active volcano spewing ash/smoke. P.S we visited this place prior to the fatal volcano eruption New Zealand that occurred in Jan 2020.

The Kagoshima Prefecture regional postcard looks similar to the actual view isn’t it?

Kagoshima Shinkansen Station stamp also featured the Sakurajima volcano.

We stopped by Kumamoto Station as well to buy some omiyage (next post). The Kumamoto Castle featured on the stamp which was damaged by powerful earthquakes in April 2016. It was undergoing restoration work during the period of our visit.

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★ El Celler de Can Roca, Girona

On 2nd March 2018, we were excited to secure our table at El Celler de Can Roca, Girona to celebrate Valentine’s Day 2019. Been wanting to eat here since 2016 when we last visited Barcelona – was on the waitlist that didn’t’ clear… This reservation was the anchor of our winter holiday that resulted in us planning a trip to Barcelona.

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Took an early train from Barcelona to Girona and took time to explore the town centre in the morning and work up an appetite for lunch. We arrived pretty early (& hungry) and even waited at a nearby park until 5 mins before our 12 noon slot before entering the compound.

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Nonetheless we were led to wait at the lounge as the staff and crew were not ready yet. We rewarded ourselves for waking up early and making our way to Girona ahead of scheduled lunch time with a glass of Albet i Noya El Celler Brut Rva D.O. Classic Penedes.

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While waiting for our table, we were offered to browse the menu. There are two options available: the smaller Tasting of our classic menu (7-course) and the bigger Feast menu (15-course). The choice was clear for us…given this almost once-in-a-lifetime experience, we had to try as much food as possible.

Before commencing on the proper courses, we were treated to a series of snacks~

Starting with Memories of a bar in the suburbs of Girona: squids, kidneys with Sherry, gentian and orange bonbon, Montse’s meat cannelloni, Cod brandade Love the way the small bites were placed over the pop-up stand with photos of the 3 brothers when they were young.

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The presentation continued to impress us with Coral: Cockles à la royal with lemon and fermented pepper air and Tuna belly with ginger. We enjoyed every bit of the fresh seafood featured.

Next is probably one of the signature dishes of the restaurant Green olive’s ice cream and black olive tempura. Can you spot the 2 olives hanging on the plant?

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While we were enjoying the snacks that continued to wow us, we can’t help but had our eyes glued on an elaborated globe which made its way to other tables that started their meal later than us. What about us? Had they forgotten to serve us that snack? Or is that not included in our menu? 

Our anxiety piled as FOMO hit us….we heaved a sigh of relief when the stunning globe was finally brought to our table!

The snacks were created based on the Roca’s travels around the world, which apparently changes regularly. Head over to my instagram or hashtag: #yummydelightsg_roca to see the video of this incredible globe.

For our meal, it featured 3 Asian countries (but not Singapore though from others’ post I read that they showcased our country’s famous chilli crab).

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The World (clockwise from top-right)

  • Turquia: lamb, yourt, cucumber, onions with mint
  • Peru: “Causa limeña”
  • Korea: panco fried bread, bacon with soya sauce, kimchi and sesame oil
  • Thailand: Thai, chicken, coriander, coconut, curry and lime

After finishing the first 4 snacks, we had to move the lever to match the correct country that inspired the last snack. The answer was pretty straightforward as the last snack was

  • Japan: miso cram with nyinyonyaki

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After shifting the lever, the globe opens up for the final surprise snack – Sphere of edible seawater. We certainly appreciated the fun factor behind the thoughts and presentation of the snacks. This was the 2nd most interactive dining experience we had, 1st being our visit to Azurmendi.

The last snack was  Bean leaves with baby bean tartar, “calçot”, lemon albedo and Black mole Truffled brioche picured with Gonzalez Byass Palo Cortado 1986 Para El Celler De Can Roca. This final snack featured a dish incorporating mole which is a traditional sauce originally used in Mexican cuisine, highlighting the diversity of food showcased in the repertoire of amuse bouche presented.

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Bread was offered before we commence the meal proper. Bearing in mind that we would be having a 15-course menu, I had to exercise self-control to limit the amount of bread that I pick though everything look so enticing.

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Kicked off our meal proper with the visually stunning Red Salad: beetroot vinaigrette, charcoal-grilled red pepper, red sisho jelly, red onion, celery and cilantro. Honestly, we are not veg people but we polished off everything in a snap. The refreshing and appetizing starter got us ready for the epic courses ahead.

Compared to the earlier dish which exudes passion from the vibrant red colour, the next dish was a picture of calm and serenity. To me, it looked like a Japanese painting – with gold alps rising above the misty clouds and a pair of birds soaring above. Here is the Golden gilt-head bream with rice and sake milk, tender almond tofu and pickled lychee.

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Although this was not the first time we visit Barcelona, we hadn’t got the chance to try the celebrated Catalan spring onion.  Happy to taste “Calçot” with black sesame ash and dark “romesco” sauce, although it was not served in its traditional form. The traditional way of eating this require guests to eat this with their hand by first peeling off the charred outer layer and dipping the stem part into a sauce; before tilting your head back and lowering it into your mouth (test of your coordination skills). Guess they try to avoid having guests make a mess at this fine dining place hence we got to eat this elegantly with our fork and knife.

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Next we had the Langoustine with sagebrush, vanilla oil and toasted butter. By itself it’s a nice dish, but after tasting the awesome langoustine served at Maaemo a few days ago this was comparatively less memorable.

Perhaps I should cover the wine pairing for the dishes so far: (Top row) Gramona Celler Batlle 04 D.O. Cava, Cosmic Encarinyades 17 Agullana and Sake Katsuyama Den Junmai Daiginjo.

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(Bottom row) Chateau des Rontets Les Birbettes 15 A.O.C Pouilly-Fuisse, Gran Caus 04 D.O. Penedes and 3 Miradas La Vina de Antonin 17 D.O. Montilla Moriles.

Yet another traditional Spanish ingredient was featured, this time round it’s rabbit meat – Cuttlefish “alla brutesca” with roasted rabbit sauce. Rabbit meat is a somewhat exotic protein that is pretty rare to find in Singapore. I’m not exactly sure but it seemed like “alla brutesca” mean pan-roasted? The last time we had a taste of rabbit meat was at Osteria Francescana where it was served as a filling of a tiny macaron snack. Hence this is the first time we are tasting the meat as a proper dish on its own.

After cutting a small piece off the bone, I placed it gingerly in my mouth expecting the gamey flavour to hit my palate (somehow I had the impression that it would be gamey…). To my surprise, there was none of it and the meat was tender and chewy. It tasted like frog meat.

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Next we had the Semi cured hake, juice of its bones, asparagus and rocket pesto, and grilled piparras and rocket oil. Followed by Steamed fresh-caught whole fish market, stuffed with seaweeds and sea anemones. Both fish dish were incredibly fresh and tasty. They had differing textures, former being firm and flaky while the latter had tender and delicate meat.

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A third fish dish was served, this time round – Dried eel from Delta de l’Ebre with a foam of garlic and red pepper, charcoal-grilled eel, stir-fry dried potato and saffron oil rounding up our exploration of the harvests from the ocean.

We were delighted to have the Iberico suckling pig blanquette, with fermented cabbage and spiced meatball “pilota” as main. The suckling pig, is a quintessential Spanish dish which we first tried while in Sevogia (Restaurante Villena). The crackling skin with tender meat was unforgettable. Here the dish is plated with acidic sides to balance the richness of the meat.

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Wine pairing (Top row): Domaine Vacheron Les Romains 16 A.O.C Sancerre, Partida Pedrer 16 D.O. Qa. Priorat, Mas d’en Compte 07 D.O. QQa. Priorat

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(Bottom row) Pradio 16 Ribeira Sacra, Anayon 1967 Carinena, Domaine Verset 10 A.O.C. Cornas

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Other than the vintage 1967 wine that left an impression on us, the other wine which I remember fondly was the Vina Real Gran Reserva 75 D.O. Rioja for its vibrant colour and taste. Head over to my instagram to see a video of it’s colour when we twirled it in the glass, the diffracted lights looked like a dancing fire #yummydelightsg_roca

Although France has traditionally been known as the main producer of black truffles, the “diamond of the kitchen” is also produced in Spain. And they are one of the countries with the biggest black truffle production. Happy to try this during the truffle harvest season – Truffle soufflé Truffle oil, truffle parmentier, veal oyster blade, truffle foam.

I even found an interesting story behind the creation of this dish (here). It was said that the truffle soufflé was inspired by the iconic roof of Casa Mila (I visited this impressive building in 2016 – see the shot of roof).

As Joan Roca’s chef explains: “Inspired by the organic faceted shapes of Gaudi’s architecture, the truffle slices contain an ethereal truffle soufflé, and in its core, a portion of veal oyster blade cooked at low temperature, of 50º degrees for 70 hours“.

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The second meat dish was Smoked duck magret with orange. This dish seemed like a modern twist to the classic French dish of Duck à l’Orange.

Finally the last main course arrived and its Hare à la royal Beetroot purée, black garlic purée, cocoa dust, distilled earth – another famous French dish. The intensely flavoured hare meat (very gamey compared to rabbit although we typically think that they belonged to the same family?) is served with a rich earthy sauce made with mushrooms, truffle etc. The portion was just right for us to appreciate the dish without feeling overwhelmed by its intense flavours.

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For desserts we started with Petrichor Distilled earth, pine syrup ice cream, carob cookie, fir dust, cocoa biscuit. Petrichor refers to the earthy scent produced when rain falls on dry soil. Hence this dessert was made to look like soil covered with dried leaves sitting in a puddle of water. It certainly look like we were served soil~

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It’s just my guess that they served this dessert – Whiskey cake, as it was supposedly a very popular cake in the 80’s (at least in Spain). Perhaps this serves as a reminder to the brothers’ childhood memories?

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The brothers seemed to have immense love for chocolate and it’s not surprising to see Jordi create this dessert From cocoa to chocolate Pantone gradient of cocoa pulp, lychee, vinegar and manzanilla wine, almond milk, raisin, PX and chocolate. Brownie, chocolate sorbet, crispy chocolate made in our bakery workroom and cocoa nib. He even launched a book titled ‘Casa Cacao’ (‘Cocoa House’), a cookbook full of creations where chocolate plays the leading role.

Wine pairing for desserts include: Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Spatlese 03 VDP Mosel, Ars Natura Liqquida Whisky a la tarta, Perez Barqquero La Canada PX D.O. Montilla Moriles and Cafe V60 Fina la Esmeralda Panama Geisha.

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Our guilty pleasure didn’t end with the final dessert, instead we were soon greeted by this grand trolley filled with mignardises.

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That’s not all…We were eagerly waiting for the sci-fi looking trolley to be pushed to us~  Head over to my IG to see it in action: #yummydelightsg_roca

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At this point, I must highlight the subtle but interesting shadows cast by the trees in the courtyard as the sun passes by slowly. A wonderful idea that brings guest closer to nature while dining in the comfort of the hall.

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It was already 4pm by the time we finished our lunch, we have only a few hours left to explore the rest of Girona before catching the train back to Barcelona. I must say this day trip to dine at El Celler de Can Roca was totally worth it.

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