★ 80/20, Bangkok

After 3.5 years break from my last visit to Bangkok, we were eager to satisfy our Thai food cravings. Tried our luck in getting a table at Sorn but was an agonizingly frustrating process. So 80/20 was our next choice with reservation available conveniently via Chope. I was drawn to their menu that features modern Thai cuisines. Later then I realised that Chef Andrew Martin had worked at Nahm, Bo.Lan, Issaya Siamese Club etc. He was in fact Chef de cuisine at 80/20 from 2016-2018.

Before we start our meal, the restaurant enquired on our tolerance level for spicy food. We gamely took on the challenge to try their standard/normal level. Also opted for the wine pairing which started with Champagne Lombard, Extra Brut Premier Cru.

Khanom Buang Thai crepe, banana prawn, ivory mango is an interesting variation of the commonly seen street snack of Thai Crispy Pancake. The prawn and mango combination makes it a great starter, complimented by the aromatic fried shallots and crunchy thin crepe.

From one tropical fruit to another, next was the beautifully prepared Seasonal Fruit Lychee, prawn, peanut. With the seed removed and replaced with prawn filling, we were told to pop the succulent fruit in 1 bite (without the skin) into our mouth. Upon biting, the burst of sweet and aromatic floral notes instantly hit our palate.

Last snack were Moo Hom Mangda Grilled pork, rose apple, mangda and Jungle “Juice” Wild herbs, wild fruit, wild tea. The grilled pork checked all the boxes of having a crackling skin with a fat layer underneath. The greasiness was balanced with the punchy mangda (chilli paste), pickled gooseberries and crunchy rose apple. The slightly tart juice served as a palate cleanser before we progress into the actual course proper starting with several appetizers.

Headlining the appetizer course was a signature dish of Stormy Sea Squid, mangosteen, chili, said to be inspired by Chef’s squid-fishing trip in the south of Thailand and featured the national fruit – Mangosteen aka the ‘Queen of Fruits’. The broth itself has a complex amalgamation of flavours, with tartness, savoury, sweetness and spiciness. Paired with Blue Sand, Sauvignon Blanc,

Most people might be familiar with Tom Yum but we were introduced to a lesser known specialty amongst foreigners. Geang Som Talay Sour curry, pineapple, seaweed is a Southern Thai sour curry. The version here was prepared with monkfish (not sure) and was an inviting dish with bold flavours. While Tom Yam is known for its spicy and tangy profile, Gaeng Som lean more towards a tangy and mildly sour taste.

We continued with the harvests from the ocean with Goong Pao Yang Fire roasted prawn, grilled tomato ‘nam jim’. Smoky umami flavour from the prawn was accentuated by the sweetness of the grilled tomato dipping sauce. Paired with Jean-Marc Brocard, Petit Chablis.

The last appetizer was a dish paying tribute to Yim Yim Restaurant (a legendary 120-year-old Teochew restaurant in Chinatown), Named Ped Yim Yim Duck, chestnut, pork (Smile Smile Duck) it looks like a re-constructed Chinese dish which we probably know as “Eight Treasure Duck”. Subtle differences in terms of execution can be noted such as the use of dry-aged duck instead of being braised. Paired with Valserrano, Rioja Crianza.

Another palate refresher was served and this time round its the Lao Khao Rice wine. A toasted rice sorbet sitting on a bed of sliced grapes soaked in Thai rice whiskey.

For the main course, it was served in Thai communal dining style. Paired with Andrew Peace Masterpeace, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gap Khao which means “with rice” is a set of dishes served all at once (from top left to right):

Black pepper asparagus, egg, sweet sausage
Reef cod, crab relish, local herbs
Grilled flank steak, border nam prik, pork skin
Geang (curry), yum, jackfruit
Clay pot tumeric rice

Amongst the array of dishes, the hearty red curry was definitely the highlight. Though it might be a tad spicy for some people. The portioning of the dishes were well-measured, we could finish them (except for the rice).

Before progressing to desserts, we were presented with yet another palate cleaner Southern Drink Som kaek (garcinia) & honey. The sweet-sour drink probably served as a great digestive aid after a rich and heavy meal.

Despite having finished serving the main dishes for all the tables, we still saw Chef Andrew Martin in the kitchen working together with the rest of his crew to prepare the desserts. At one point, we saw Chef athletically dashed out to hand over a scarf left behind by a guest. It was amazing to see Chef being so full of energy after a long day in the kitchen. He told us that he typically starts his day early to visit the markets to source for ingredients, he even made time to clock a run before starting his day in the kitchen.

Last two desserts to round up our meal was paired with Massolino, Moscato d’Asti. Khanom Chocolate Yang Chocolate, wild berries, black sesame was a delightful treat. Perhaps our palates were looking forward to something soothing to nurse our now “fiery” stomach filled with the spicy dishes.

Interestingly the chocolate dessert seemed to have “reset” our palates. Although at first glance, the 2nd dessert of Suan Maprow Coconut, guava, honey looked plain, we were able to appreciate its delicate flavours. I was not a guava lover but was blown away by how good it tastes here! The guava complemented by the nutty, creamy coconut flavours along with a hint of sweet honey. This pleasant experience gave me confidence to try guava juice for breakfast at my hotel the next morning!

Being a half-Japanese, Chef’s drew inspiration from his grandmother to present us with Petit Fours White & gold. Starting with a banana coconut mochi which was lightly grilled on the outer surface and finishing with a refreshing sorbet adorned with bits of gold foil.

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