Snacks & Food from Hokkaido (Otaru)

Other than the widely-known landmark of Otaru canal, the other key attraction of this small harbour town is the high concentration of popular confectioneries along the shopping street (known as Sakaimachi Street).

As expected, the small town is packed with lots of tourists making the area very touristy. The street is filled with shops selling glassware, seafood restaurants and souvenir shops.

We narrowed our ‘to-buy’ list to the few major stops focusing on FOOD.

Our first stop was Kitaichi Glass‘s Rainbow Soft Serve. Kitaichi Glass (北一硝子) manufactures and sells glass products but they are also known for their multi-layered colourful soft serve. They have several stores in Otaru itself but the soft serve is available at Kitaichi Glass Store No. 3 (北一硝子三号館). We chose the 8-layers soft serve which is priced at ¥580 (S$7). It was easy to identify the flavours (from bottom tier up): Vanilla, Chocolate, Melon, Lavender, Matcha, Strawberry, Choco-Vanilla (twist) and Melon-Lavender (twist).

The soft serve here is the most creamy version compared to the other soft serves that I tried (in Hakodate and Niseko). The jumbo size soft serve also drew lots of attention as we walked along the shopping street trying to finish it off.

Another point to note is this place also carries another famous ice-cream – Cremia in Japan. It’s the one at the bottom right-hand corner of my photo above. As we still have chance to try Cremia in Tokyo later, we went with the rainbow soft serve instead.

Further down the shopping street, there are 2 major confectioneries side-by-side: Rokkatei
(六花亭) and Kitakaro (北菓楼). Although these confectioneries also has outlets all across Hokkaido, they have relatively huge branches in Otaru. Visiting these branches will offer a bigger variety of products compared to the outlets housed within departmental stores. The downside would be the stores are absolutely packed!

I started my snacks haul at Rokkatei. Their headquarter is located in Obihiro, Hokkaido and their signature product is the Marusei Butter Sandwiches. Other than the signature product, several of their confectionery items are also extremely popular with tourists. So much so that they had special sets comprising of an assortment of their popular products in a gift bag/gift boxes, the small gift bag with 5 items retails from ¥530 (S$6.50). The assortment sets are ideal for folks who wanted to sample all of them.

I noticed that the same product can come in different packaging, naturally the more elaborated packaging will cost more. The boxes makes the snacks more presentable as gifts but also takes up substantial luggage space. As most of the snacks I purchased are for self-consumption, I chose the more economical packaging. Another point to note is these confectionery products have relatively short shelf-life, most of them to be consumed within 2 weeks except for chocolates that has a longer expiry date. The expiry dates are clearly printed on the packaging so do take note of that.

I shall start the introduction with their signature Marusei Butter Sandwiches. A layer of butter, cream mixed with raisin and white chocolate is sandwiched between two soft biscuits. The raisins have rum in it, so it is NOT suitable for Muslims.

The delicate butter cream is so soft that it turned slightly mushy even in Sapporo‘s cold weather when I tried it a day after my purchase. I can imagine that the butter cream would have melted if I brought them back to Singapore. I’m not a fan of shortbread cookies and I didn’t like the cream being too oily, so this star product didn’t rank highly on my taste test.

The second product I chose was the Simodatami biscuit.  The biscuits used to sandwich the mocha white chocolate cream are crispy and light, dusted with fine sugar. This was superbly addictive and we quickly finished the 5 pieces that we bought! Should have purchased more of this since it is light and easy to carry. They are also available in boxes which can help to protect the fragile biscuits and they do not require refrigeration.

The third product was Hiroboro biscuits, was released in 2015 in celebration of the opening of Rokkatei’s Sapporo outlet. Guess it is so popular that they have continued selling them thereafter. Available in 2 flavours – chocolate and strawberry. The crispy biscuit is coated with either chocolate or strawberry outside. After taking the first bite, you can see that the biscuit is formed with multiple layers of puff pastry, hence it tasted like millefeuille (thousand layers of puff pastry). I loved the texture of this wonderful biscuit!

Last but not least, the Strawberry Chocolate (Milk/White). Crispy freeze-dried crunchy strawberries are coated in either white chocolate or milk chocolate. Pretty standard chocolate snack, but they are available in easy to carry small packs, good for munching during day trips =)

After our mini-shopping spree, we crossed to their next door neighbour – Kitakaro. Kitakaro’s star product is actually the baumkuchen (Singaporeans probably know them as the round kueh lapis cake), but we were actually more interested in their Cream Puffs. Unfortunately we underestimated the purchasing power of the crowd in Otaru and was disappointed that the cream puffs were sold out when we wanted to purchase them at 5pm. We had walked by the shop earlier shortly after lunch but didn’t want to purchase the puffs too early as we were still full.  Thankfully we managed to purchase the cream puffs from an outlet in the food hall of a departmental store in Sapporo.

The gigantic cream puffs have to be kept chilled if you are not eating them instantly. The choux pastry has a nice texture – not too soggy and not too hard. The custard filling was rich and milky.

Another extremely common brand seen along the shopping street is LeTAO. There are numerous stores with different themes all selling LeTAO products. We went to the one right at the end of the shopping street not knowing that it is the Head Store.  The store was also packed with tourists…The queue system was not clearly demarcated and seems slightly chaotic.

We purchased the Double Fromage cheesecake ¥1600 (S$20) which is sold frozen. The confectionery store developed the technology to freeze the cheesecake in order to facilitate delivery due to increase demand across Japan. Although the cake is sold frozen, when we purchase them from the store, it still needs to be packed with an ice pack. The cake has to be thawed in the refrigerator for 5 to 8 hours before eating. Staff was really attentive and asked if we needed knife and spoons to eat the cake. So we had no problems when we brought the cheesecake back to our hotel in Sapporo to have it for breakfast the next day.

The two-layered Double Fromage, made of baked cheesecake with a rich cheese flavor and unbaked cheesecake that is light and milky, was well-balanced. Making the overall taste rich yet not overwhelmingly cheesy. The two of us finished this cake by ourselves for breakfast! The melt-in-your-mouth texture was fabulous and I have no qualms to purchase it again if the quality of the ones sold in Singapore outlet is the same even though it is more costly. In fact, writing the post about this made me feel like dashing out to get one immediately!!!

LeTAO head store is housed in this building with a clock tower with bells.  Whereas Kitakaro is housed in a relatively plain block structure.

You have reached the end of the shopping street when you see the Music Box MuseumOutside the music box museum is a steam clock presented by city of Vancouver to Otaru. We made a trip into the music box museum hoping to find a special music box to bring home but left after a short 10 minutes. It was too cramped and rowdy inside, packed with tourists who seems to be in rush for time…squeezing their way and shuffling about in the huge hall filled with delicate ornaments. I reckoned I could not find something in such situation.

Fans of Ghibli can visit Otaru’s only character music box specialty shop “Character House Yume no Oto” (梦之音) next to the Music Box Museum. The shop is not as packed and you can find many character products. Notably, the entire 2nd storey is dedicated to Ghibli characters. I was kinda tempted to bring home the Totoro one though I’ve not seen the film before…

Although we spent 2.5 hours walking from Otaru canal to the end of the shopping street, we had only managed to cover the major FOOD places along with 2 music box shops.

Tourists who had joined tour groups appeared to be shepherded along the shopping street with not much time for them look around. This resulted in many of them being impatient and rushing about when making purchases at the stores.

While I was happy with my snacks haul, I didn’t enjoy the overall experience of visiting the shopping street which was markedly spoiled by the behaviour of the grouped tour members.

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★ Isezushi, Otaru

In recent years, the widespread usage of internet brought much convenience to users worldwide. However the adoption of internet reservation in Japan hasn’t really picked up. Many of the restaurants still relied on phone as the mode for accepting reservations. Isezushi was the first restaurant for this trip whereby I had to make a call on my own to make a booking using my broken Japanese. Thankfully the staff who picked up my call was able to decipher my intention and the reservation went smoothly for a dinner seating at the sushi counter.

Hokkaido is known for their fresh seafood and we could have enjoyed sushi at any of the towns we stayed in. However we planned to dine at Isezushi since we needed dinner in Otaru after visiting the Snow Light Path Festival.  Moreover Isezushi was listed as a 1-michelin star restaurant in the one and only Hokkaido guide published in 2012.

When we entered the counter area, there were 2 other guests who were mid-way through their meal. Menu was pretty straight-forward with 3 choices: Jun Set (16 pieces of sushi) ¥6300/Dai Set (12 pieces of sushi) ¥3900 /Gin Set (10 pieces of sushi) ¥3000. Naturally we went with the Jun Set to eat our fill.

Our sushi feast commenced with Turbot, followed by Maguro, Chutoro and Kinmedai.

The final two fish sushi were Saba and Nishin (pacific herring) – an Otaru specialty. Thereafter we moved on to the shellfish sushi starting with Botan ebi, followed by Hotate, Hokki (surf clam).

We had a bit of problem confirming the next clam sushi with Chef due to our limited Japanese and sushi knowledge… Chef said it was “crab shell” so using google translator it’s likely to be Tsubugai (whelk)?

The next crustacean sushi was something new to me. It is an Otaru speciality – Shako (mantis shrimp). The texture falls between that of lobster and crayfish, succulent and chewy. To the Cantonese, they may know this as 瀨尿蝦.

Our final nigiri was Kani sushi and with that we moved onto the gunkan.

The gunkan (battleship) is typically used to serve different types of roes. So we had Ikura, followed by Tarako (cod roe), Kaki (oyster) and lastly Uni!

Although we had been in Hokkaido for 1.5 weeks and pampered with sumptuous fresh seafood at the morning markets, this meal was by far the most satisfying and value-for-money. The cost of enjoying a 1-michelin star quality sushi omakase meal is only a fraction of what we need to pay in Singapore.

While dining at the restaurant, we noticed there were a few guests that came to the restaurant without reservation and were turned away. We were glad that our efforts in making advance reservation for restaurants paid off as it seems that most of the fine-dining places in Hokkaido goes strictly by reservation and do not allocate seats for walk-in customers.

I bid the chef and staff “Good night” in Japanese and the staff replied “晚安” when she knew we were from Singapore. The hospitality and thoughtfulness of Japanese service truly impressed us as we were offered warmed heat packs when we were about to leave the restaurant.

Earlier photos taken:

As night falls the number of group tourists dwindled and the shopping street returned to its peaceful self. While strolling along the relatively empty shopping street, I began to notice that a number of the structures are classified as designated historical buildings. Interestingly due to huge foreign influences, these buildings are mostly built using stone/bricks which are quite different from our impression of traditional Jap structures.

While trying to locate the Former Temiya Railway, we stumbled upon the site of Otaru Snow Light Path Festival. Although we were aware of the snow festival, we thought the only light up area was the Otaru canal – as depicted in the official brochure distributed.

It was a fabulous surprise to be treated to a whole stretch of snow sculpture displays decorated with the warm glow of flickering tealight candles.

My favourite theme amongst the displays at Former Temiya Railway site is the one with Autumn leaves.

Snow sculptures of various sizes are on display.

Another theme that caught my attention was the one using pressed flowers.

After completing the Former Temiya Railway site, we walked over to the Otaru Canal site. As expected the Asakusabashi bridge was superbly packed, I managed to get to the front as most people move off quickly after getting their shot. The tiny lights on the river are from the glass floats (same as the type once used for herring fishing).

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Otaru Beer ‎Warehouse No.1 小樽ビール醸造所, Otaru

After strolling along the we stopped by one of the restored warehouse units to enjoy Otaru Beer. Otaru beer actually has German parentage as its braumeister brought over his knowledge to produce three regular ales — Dunkel, Pilsner and Weiss.

The brews tasted similar to typical german beers e.g Paulaner, Hofbrau but the brews here are made in Otaru, Japan.

It is not surprising that the warehouse unit exudes the ambience of a typical German beer hall and serves a decent range of German cuisines. You can find Schnitzel and bratwursts (sausages) on the menu as well as Jap-western dishes. This place is a stark contrast to my earlier experience at the Sapporo Beer Garden – which is more of a BBQ buffet place…

If you are looking for a place to relax and enjoy a drink in Otaru (while waiting for the others to finish their shopping spree), this is a nice place to chill.

Photos taken earlier:

A cliché photo of the Otaru canal, thankfully before visiting the place I already moderated my expectations of this place and was prepared that it will be an over-hyped canal…Tourists packed the bridge which is the most popular photo-spot, myself included…but I moved off quickly after taking the shot.

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Minshuku Aozukashokudo 民宿 青塚食堂, Otaru

While researching on food options in Otaru, a photo of grilled fishes skewered on sticks and placed next to a bed of glowing red charcoal caught my attention. Immediately I went to find out where was the photo taken. That’s how I came to know of Minshuku Aozukashokudo.

Most tourists on day trip to Otaru probably focused their activities within the main Otaru canal area. However getting to this far-flung eatery without driving meant that we had to spend an additional travelling time of 25 mins on bus from the JR station in Otaru. If you like aquariums, you can also check out the Otaru Aquarium which is located in the vicinity.

minshuku-aozukashokudo_01

As we approached the shophouse unit which is located by the coast, I instantly recognised the scene that prompted me to hunt down this place. So this freshly grilled herring would definitely be on my order. The Grilled Herring set (¥2000, S$25) included appetizer sides, scallops and octopus sashimi and clam soup. Other than the slightly charred skin, the flesh of the fish was nicely grilled. We absolutely loved the tasty and firm texture of the fish.

For the other set meal, we opted for the tantalising ikura/uni don set priced at around ¥6500 (S$80). For this set, the staff informed us of the pricing when we placed our order. We were not disappointed when we saw the size of the rice bowl! And they had filled it fully to the brim with bright orange uni and red ikura!

We also ordered a few grilled items such as scallops and whelks. Here’s a closer look at the amazing ikura/uni don.

Besides the prized don, we also tried the Grilled Abalone that cost ¥5000 (S$60). Similarly the staff had informed us of its price when we ordered the item. Actually from the menu photo, we had mistaken this as Oyster therefore we asked for it to be grilled. Otherwise we would have had it in sashimi form… Nonetheless the grilled abalone was chewy, succulent and totally worth the money! I think its quite impossible to get abalone this fresh in Singapore for the price we paid.

We left the restaurant with a damage closed to S$200 but the point to note is they do not accept credit card. Therefore have sufficient cash on hand if you wish to order other premium items on the menu.

Although this eatery is located slightly outside of the main Otaru town, we were glad that we made our way here for a satisfying meal, away from the hustle and bustle of the touristy Otaru centre.

Earlier photos taken:

The few landmarks in Sapporo city – Sapporo Clock Tower, Sapporo TV Tower and the former Hokkaido Government Office Building.

With impeding opening of the Sapporo Snow Festival, there are ice sculptures all around town and food stalls along Odori Park.

After spending the morning in Sapporo city, we made our way to nearby town of Otaru. Otaru is only 30 mins by rapid train from Sapporo and there is a Sapporo-Otaru Welcome Pass that only overseas visitors can purchase – you are required to show your passport at time of purchase.  Holders of this pass enjoy unlimited rides on JR Hokkaido trains between Sapporo and Otaru for a day (though I wonder who would take multiple rides in a day?) and unlimited rides on all subway lines in Sapporo. As 2 cards are given, one for JR train ride and one for subway, the 2 cards can be used on separate days.

sapporo-otaru-welcome-pass

Although the trains run frequently between the 2 stations (one train every 15 mins interval), I was stunned by how packed the train was! While reading up on the train ride to Otaru, we were advised that the trains offer ocean views on the right-hand side halfway though the ride. I would say you are damn lucky if you could even get a seat!!! We boarded the local train, which would take 45 mins to get to Otaru instead of the rapid train which only takes 30 mins, thinking that perhaps it would be less crowded. We stood for the whole journey in the cabin which was cramped with train-load of tourists.

When the scenic view appeared on the right side of the train, I could hear the passengers’ gasps while marveling at the ocean horizon. With one hand holding onto the overhear grab handle, I attempted to take a shot using my only free hand making use of the gap between 2 passengers in front of me – finally got a decent shot after a few attempts…

otaru_04

And here are the JR Station stamps from Sapporo both featured the Clock Tower.

Not forgetting the one from Otaru which unfortunately had a bald patch in the centre as the stamp itself was flattened.

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